UKC

Hi there,

I'm off to Skye at the weekend and I want to plan two routes suitable for a group of mixed ability. I'll be carrying a confidence rope but if I can avoid using it, that would be my preference. Can anyone suggest some routes which meet the following please?

Route 1. Circular day route walking from Sligachan. Something that will get us up on Sgurr nan Gillean, Knight's Peak or Am Basteir. Nothing too sheer or technical (applies to both days)

Route 2. Circular day route walking from Glen Brittle or that side of the range. Something that will get us up on or near the Cioch, Sgurr Alasdair or anything else worthy of a good mountain day on that side of the range.

I'll be using standard OS maps if anyone wants to include grids Any help really appreciated.

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:

Hi,

Depends on the definition of mixed ability. All the mentioned summits will require a good level of scrambling experience, and Knight's Peak will need rock climbing skills. I would definitely say the word "sheer" applies to all and some exposed scrambling would definitely be found on the easiest routes.

If you are talking about minimal scrambling with reasonably fit walkers, then the two obvious (only) summits you might chose are Bruach na Frithe from Sligachan, and Sgurr na Banachdich from Glen Brittle. The views would still be magnificent, assuming you can avoid Skye's regular cloud blanket. You could also have an excellent day exploring up to Coire a' Ghrunnda from the latter, though even this involves some scrambling.

You might also include Bla Bheinn by the easiest route.

How big's the group? The Black Cuillin's summits and ridges are not a great place for a large group if only a small number are experienced in moving unroped on scrambling terrain. There are lots of other great walks on Skye too, on the Red Cuillin, the coast, and in Trotternish.

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:

You have plenty of options which may work for your group but I fear your initial thoughts about peaks may not be appropriate. How much experience of the Cullin do you have yourself? It's not like anything else in the UK. When you say mixed ability I have visions of scrambling being relatively new to some group members.

Route 1: All the peaks you mention involve potentially serious scrambling which may be beyond the scope of a confidence rope if someone needs help. For example, the easiest way up and down Sgurr nan Gillian is the so-called tourist route (SE ridge), a grade 3 scramble with serious exposure in places. The SE ridge is more serious than most mainland scrambles. All other descents will probably involve an abseil at some point.

A suitable alternative from Sligachan for those new to the Cuillin could be doing a round of the Fionn Choire. For this, perhaps consider going up Sgurr a Bhasteir (not Am Bhasteir) and then working your way up Bruach na Frith then either down into Fionn Chorie or down Bruach na Frith's NW ridge. Sgurr a Bhasteir gives a pleasant introduction to scrambling on the Cuillin, with quite a few of the difficulties avoidable but also plenty of options to keep things interesting. Going down the NW ridge is perhaps a bit more continuous but of a similar vein. If the mist's not in, then you'll get excellent views of Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillian, Am Basteir and its tooth.

Route 2: There are a few options from the Glen Brittle side, but it's hard to make things circular without getting involved with some serious scrambling and route finding. Accessing the Cioch is quite serious so should probably be ruled out with a mixed ability party without a climbing rope. Sgurr Alaisdair, one of my favourite peaks in the Cuillin, is a possibility as a linear walk. This would involve going up and down the loose Great Stone Shoot. (As with all Cuillin adventures, make sure you take a helmet.) There's a short-lived narrow ridge from the top of the stone shoot to the summit which is grade 2, which you would have to do out and back.

An alternative, circular route on the ridge may be doing a round of Coire na Banachdich. This would be particularly suitable if the scrambling on Route 1 went well and you found it within the group's limits. Here, you could do a scramble up the South-West ridge of Sgurr Deag and have a look at the In Pin from its summit. Then head north to Sgurr na Banachdich which will take you on some scrambling ground but often with the most difficult parts avoidable on narrow paths the west (left going north). There is then a path off the summit of Sgurr na Banachdich that takes you into Coir' an Eich, from which the rest of the decent is obvious. Finding the way off Sgurr na Banachdich can take confident navigation skills if the mist is in as the broad shoulder can feel a bit confusing.

Regarding maps and guidebooks: the 1:50K OS map is okay on the Cuillin but the 1:25K is almost impossible to use due to the overprint showing that the ground is predominantly rocky. The ideal map, however, is the Harvey's Superwalker, which is very clear and has a 1:12.5K enlargement of the main ridge. If you don't already have it may be worth getting a copy of the Skye Scrambles guidebook published by the SMC.

Hope this helps. I'm sure others will be along with more advice.

Mehmet

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:
SnG is no place for novices and particularly in a large group. From Sligachan instead prefer Sgurr a Bhasteir from the mouth of the coire to which it lends its name and then take in Bruach na Frithe with a choice of descents via Fiona Choire or the NW ridge if the weaker participants are going well. Great views and easy scrambling throughout. For a long day take the optional extension by descending SW from BnF over Sgurr na Bairnich to the bealach above Coire Tarnelair below the towering ramparts of An Casteil. Then descend the coire and contour round to the path linking from the Fairy Pools car park to Sligachan. A really varied expedition but long.

From Glen Brittle I'd echo the recommendation of Coire Ghrundda aiming ultimately for Gars Bheinn at the far south end of the ridge. No shame if you turn back at Sgurr nan Eag but the continuation and back offers ridge walking of the highest quality. The route finding is a little tricky in the vicinity of Casteil a Grabh Choire but otherwise straightforward and a day of unceasing interest and astounding vistas.

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:


Thanks all for the replies. I probably undersold the experience of the total group as there will be a couple of climbers and a few seasoned scramblers, just not all. We will have a couple of confidence ropes with us and the group size is 6 .

Route 1, I am erring toward SnG via the so-called ,Tourist route, from Sligachan with a possible back off to Sgurr Beag if the group gets nervous on the scramble. I also like the Bruach na Frithe options.

I like the idea of Sgurr Alasdair for Route 2 via the great shute but Sgurr na Banachdich looks equally exciting.

Lots to discuss with the team. Thanks for the help.

P.S. I got the Superwalker map as well

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:

Ah, OK, sounds like the Tourist route on SnG might be fine. The scrambling section is short, relatively straightforward, but quite exposed. The summit is one of the very best.

The Great Stone Shoot is truly horrible to climb, loose, quite dangerous due to dislodged rocks, and basically soul destroying. Its not much better to descend either! The scramble from the top to SA is short and not too hard though. I'd go for the other suggestion of Sgurr Dearg and S n B as a round, and you get to see the In Pinn at close hand too.

Enjoy!

In reply to Mal Grey:

Sold! Thanks for the reply.

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:

Bit pushed for time but will try and answer tomorrow. Meanwhile check out All Things Cuillin group on Facebook for lots of photos, info and knowledgeable folks able tooter good advice.

In reply to atrendall:

Hi Johnny,
sounds like you've got things pretty sorted but the so called Tourist Route sounds fine. If some of the group are experienced climbers and scramblers then why not consider either ascending or descending by the west ridge to make a traverse of SNG. Abseil slings are usually in place and most of the west ridge is walking and easy scrambling. The Bruache na Frithe option sounds good and you'll almost certainly not need a rope. I went up the NW ridge last week with poles and didn't need to use hands at all. Any difficulties can be bypassed but keener members can take a more direct line. It's an easy descent to Beach nan Lice with great views to Am Bastier and Sgurr nan Gillian. Simple to make into a circular walk by parking at Fairy Pools (but get there early) or at the Slig and descending to the path which links the two.

Sgurr Alasdair is brilliant but unless you want to up the ante it's going to mean ascend and descending the Great Stone Chute which can be a bit soul destroying to say the least. Another idea might be to walk up to Coire Lagan, ascend An Stac Screes (not as bad as Gt Stone Chute) go up the scree/slabs to the side of An Stac to emerge at the base of the Inaccessible Pinnacle then descend the east ridge.

Obviously, check the weather but at the moment Saturday looks pretty windy. As said above, see if you can get a copy of Skye Scrambles.

In reply to atrendall:

I'm concerned about it being a 'mixed ability group'. The Tourist Route on SNG is quite something, very exposed at the top with an ooh-err long step across a gap. I've known people to get quite scared on it. Remember: Wainwright chickened out at that point. Same kind of comments apply to the Pinnacle and West Ridges ... and to Am Basteir. These are really not places for beginners with little or no experience of hard, exposed scrambling. They are best suited to those who have at least some rock climbing experience. Of course it all depends on the individual.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I agree, Gordon but the original poster does say it's a group of six and a couple are climbers and a few are seasoned scramblers so doesn't sound like can be many total novices.

In reply to atrendall:
Hi all,

Thanks all for the great advice. We took on SnG yesterday but conditions were pretty grim. 3 out of 7 hit the summit but we left the remainder in a bit of shelter while we finished it off. The gusting wind made it a bit more intimidating for the less experienced. Off to Sgurr Alasdair today but might keep of the ridge with very strong wind forecast.

In reply to Johnny_Grunwald:

Not surprised conditions were pretty grim on SnG yesterday. Heavy rain and strong winds at sea level in Sconser all day. Can't say, I'd even have contemplated going up high but , I guess if you have travelled a long way etc. Not surprised that the less experienced found it intimidating. Good luck today on Alasdair with the very strong winds forecast. Even at sea level today they are much stronger than yesterday.