/ Vauxwall - any good?

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Fraser on 05 Oct 2017
I was thinking of trying out Vauxwall tonight but their website makes the place appear pretty small, and therefore crowded. Is there more to it than advertised and generally speaking, is it any good?
spenser - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

I used to vist when I lived down there, good setting, generally quite crimpy, although the daft rule about feet starting on the wooden rail often meant the first move was the crux. It certainly used to be less busy than the other London walls, however that was 3 years ago now!
phildavies84 - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

Tonights the monthly comp, so will be absolutely rammed (possibly 1 in, 1 out around 6:30). Its generally quieter from 8 onwards. Its worth a visit, though can get quite busy during the week. They are planning on opening up a 4th arch at the end of the month which should hopefully help things. I think generally the settings decent quality and has a quite friendly atmosphere. The've completely got rid of the foot rail, which was a pretty terrible idea.
DannyC - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

I've only been once, and found it unpleasantly warm, small and busy - even though I arrived late.

However, the routes were good and staff were friendly, so if you can stand the number of people (and London entry price), you'll have a good time.

I much prefer Mile End.

D
Ardverikie2 on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to DannyC:

> I've only been once, and found it unpleasantly warm, small and busy - even though I arrived late.

I feel "unpleasantly" to be a considerable understatement. Haven't been for some time though for exactly that reason.
That apart. I quite liked it, as London walls go.

Fraser on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to phildavies84:

Cheers all, will avoid going tonight I think after the comp news! I'm staying near Victoria for the next fortnight so I figured it was a handy place to check out. Maybe at the w/e or next week. Thanks again.
phildavies84 - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

Sorry, just realised that the comp was yesterday evening. It might be ok tonight
southern sam on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

If you're staying in Victoria it's worth jumping on the Victoria Line for 20 minutes to Tottenham Hale and going to Stronghold which is a couple of minutes from the station. Large spacious bouldering wall with outstanding training facilities. Not too busy either.
Malarkey on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to spenser:

There is no wooden rail now but the first move is still often the crux - as they set to make the best use of space.

If you ever complain about height or reach making climbing easier then you should maybe try Vauxwall where you may find that sit-starts, undercuts, crossovers and tight fiddly crimps about waist height really favour short-arses.

Very busy place most evenings (often completely full 7-9 weekdays). Very quiet 9-4pm most days.



Phil79 - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

No, get a Skoda Octavia instead....

Sorry, I'll get my coat.
eroica64 - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Phil79:

Sit start routes require a Seat ......

I'll get my coat now.
caver - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

Victoria line for Stronghold or District line for Mile End. Both good but ME route setting wins for me.
Fraser on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to caver & s/s (deliberate abbreviation?!):

Thanks for the sugestions - not tried either yet but willing to travel. Currently partnerless so bouldering prob better option, assuming I finally get out the office!

L triniriderz - on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

I have just started work in London and Stronghold is a really good place, granted I am very new to climbing but it has everything I would ever need and more, get there outside of typical rush times and you have the place to yourself. It is only a minute walk from Tottenham Hale.

Or if you are inclined go to the Castle and have use of their auto Belay if you are billy no mates.

Ardverikie2 on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

You'll find plenty to go at at any of the walls in London & unfortunately, pretty much the same level of overcrowding at peak times.
Acceptable conditions and even minimally competent setting are much, much harder to find (if it's even possible).
OTOH travelling after-work in London is unfun , that's the trade off you and you need to find your own balance depending how much you care about those things.
Fraser on 05 Oct 2017
In reply to all:

I ended up at Vauxwall, as it was neatest to the apartment and I didn't feel like a big hike back after climbing. Initially it seemed really small, sweaty and very congested (more like I had been expecting of London walls I suppose) but after it had quietened down a bit - and the noobs didn't butt in just as you were about to start a problem - it wasn't too bad. The setting was acceptable - I've certainly seem a lot worse.

I even bumped into someone I knew in there and had a decent burger just along the road after it, so a good end to a somewhat iffy beginning.

Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions.
SenzuBean - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

How I miss my leisurely morning visits to Vauxwall... ;(

It's a nice wall - but as mentioned gets way too busy during peak times. It's one of the only London bouldering walls to have a decent traverse wall. They set actual problems on it too - not just kid's warmups.
Fishmate - on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser:

It does possess the filthiest holds I have ever experienced, at any wall. I thought the setting was very same ish throughout, although I appreciate they have a space issue to work around. Went out of curiosity, wouldn't go again. Handy if you are without option?
Fraser on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to Fishmate:

It grew on me after a while, I'd probably go back but I'd prefer somewhere with a bit more space! Went to Mile End today which was good on the bouldering front but really poor for roped stuff. Predictably, the autobelay grades were all over the shop, but that seems standard practice no matter which wall you go to! Problems seemed well set, and I liked the Secret Garden area despite failing on most things I tried! Still a few more walls to visit yet though. ...
Ardverikie2 on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to Fraser: Please keep posting your findings. This is useful stuff.

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