In reply to Trythallj:
Hi John,
Thank you for shedding some (much needed) light on this. I've never really understood the situation at Guadalest; this puts it into perspective. Met Miguel once at the refugio, with Kris. He seemed a nice guy - and a bit of a character, which I liked.
Re communication difficulties, I really like Sam's idea about some fliers. A simple A5 one, 'first edition' in English, say, could begin with the situation as you've described it, move on to some 'do's and don'ts' on the crag and finish with maybe a little cartoon (which the Spanish do brilliantly) of his refugio, for coffee, beer, etc. Also, if the leaflet mentioned that there was a totally up to date topo to buy, (say, for a euro) in the refugio, that would also get people through the door.
I've got tons of experience of running up fliers like this. (The classic mistake is to put in the kitchen sink, so the reader's heart sinks... and they don't read it!) Would be more than happy to help, if you or Kris want to broach it with him. Running off a few fliers would cost next to nothing, save him a load of stress and, as Sam rightly says, help promote his business. Put in a few plastic containers, strategically placed around the crag?
I've never had a guidebook at Guadalest, just wandered around, but super-correct gradings for the routes (no sandbags!) would help everyone to have a good day out.
In this rather horrible Brexit era, maybe a bit of cross-cultural help might be no bad thing?
Mick