/ Looking to move into grades winter climbs any suggestions?

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
AndrewC97 on 04 Dec 2017
Have managed sort a long running issue of an in grown toenail by having it removed and am at last comfortable enough to do technical stuff. Won’t being fully healed to Christmas so looking to head out and about around then. Have had plenty experience of the hills in winter but nothing graded, the hardest I have done was a traverse of the grey corries so am looking for suggestions to start me off.
EuanM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to AndrewC97:

Some easier routes documented on this site - http://scottishwinterroutes.com/

davidbeynon on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to AndrewC97:

You could probably do any grade 2 snow route without much trouble. Best to have someone experienced leading as belays and protection are quite different to rock.

nickcj - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

I always look to use rock gear first and will try and build belays on the rock walls at the side of the gully as this gives the strongest anchor available and offers the belayer some protection. No different to summer multi pitch climbing really.

It is worth knowing how to construct an effective snow anchor if you can't reach a good area of rock.

Granted gear may be more spaced out than on a rock route but much security can be gained from well placed axes and confidence in your crampons.

I would avoid moving together as this is an unnecessary risk on most Scottish routes as they are not that long and don't have the same objective dangers as the Alps.
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to AndrewC97:

this article might be helpful:


and if they go well, then this one:

Duncan Beard - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to AndrewC97:

The most satisfying easy route I've done is Central Gully in Corrie an t'Sneachda. At first it looks like an easy solo but if you are not experienced your brain may be fried near the top. You can move together keeping 2 or 3 bits of gear (nuts) between you. With some gear re-assuring you that you are not going to take the long fast route down, it's very enjoyable. 2nd time I did it the last rock gear was buried deep so I did a nice solid axe belay on very steep snow to save the unusual cornice for my mate.

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.