UKC

Just wondering what waterproof jackets everyone takes to the alps.

I have 2 jackets, one is the Mountain Equipment Tupilak 500+ g and the other is the Mountain Equipment lattice jacket 200+g

last time I took my Tupilak and it was great for a cold summit but bit heavy and bulky but my Lattice is not really waterproof, so don’t see the point in taking a waterproof jacket that’s not really that waterproof. I have ordered the new Rab downpour plus jacket 300+g but am I just wasting my Money as I’d be wearing my lightweight soft shell most of the time

Something light and cheap. The only times I've used a waterproof jacket in the Alps have been when walking to the base of a route/to a hut in poor weather in order to be in place when a weather window arrives. Other than that it lives in my pack.

I tell a lie, I also use it when going from the tent to the pizza place during prolonged spells of poor weather. Fancy goretex not required.

Soft shell is much more versatile.

Al

A Patagonia Torrentshell in summer (ie a light 'emergency' shell), and it rarely goes in my bag. In fact the only time I've used it in the Alps was slogging up the moraine to the Albert 1er hut in constant rain. Fourteen days of holiday, two days where it didn't rain...

I subscribe to the belief that if the weather is cack in the Alps, it's generally more pleasant and far less stressful to sip coffee in the valley.

Patagonia Houdini Alpine. Honestly, it's the shit imho.

As others have said, for a shortish route, good stable forecast I would also not take a waterproof. If on a longer / more committing route or a variable forecast I take the lightest I can that is waterproof. 

For years in the Alps I used to carry a 200+ grams cag to minimise the weight but got soaked the year before last, as it was only really showerproof.

So Iast year I bought an Alpkit Balance. Not much heavier but much better. The weight on the website is pretty accurate, also the sizing. Well recommended. 

The Alpine Houdini is ideal for this.

I find these “you don’t really need a waterproof in the alps” type replies worrying. You don’t very often but when you do, you really do, in my experience.  At the very least, you want something absolutely windproof, essentially waterproof, and with a full hood. Most soft shell and lightweight jackets don’t do this.

As we will be doing all sorts of Mountain days and Huts, I will need something that keeps me dry especially lower down if it’s raining in the valley but snow high up.

Last time I went the weather was nice but it could end up different.

Alpine Houdini looks nice 

For me it's not that you categorically don't need one, it's more that I'll consider the need on a case-by-case basis. If I'm doing a day route and the forecast is for blissful sunshine all day, it'll stay in the valley. If I was considering doing a day route and forecast doesn't look good, I'll stay in the valley with my jacket. If the forecast says there's a good chance it'll be a nice day but the weather might deteriorate in the afternoon, I'll put it in the bag.

For me it's about making a conscious decision armed with the facts rather than lugging things around for no reason 'just because'.

Andy,

I don't know the Alpine Houdini, so I've just googled it for info. (I assume it is the Patagonia Alpine Houdini).

It seems to be very lightweight and so probably only water-resistant/showerproof rather than waterproof.
So IMHO the same as your lightweight, which you seem to have discounted. Also similar to my lightweight, which I replaced with my only 100g heavier Alpkit Balance.

So I can't why you state that the Alpine Houdini looks good? 

Well OK, but first I'd still say that a decent jacket is needed for when you do take one , not a lightweight "toy" shell.  Also, for any number of reasons, I'd want one with me anyway  - forecast just wrong, a sudden storm, delayed, injured etc etc.  Also, also, few alpine routes are really one day

I think another thing to consider is what you are going to be doing when you need said waterproof, and also whether you are carrying any emergency bivi gear.

If you are going to carry on with whatever you had planned, then you need a good breathable hard wearing waterproof that would complement your emergency gear.

If you are going to retreat, then a simple waterproofish jacket should suffice.

For 10 consecutive seasons in the Alps, in the 80s/90s, the only waterproof I carried was a £10 Regatta cagoule. Used it a couple of times when retreating in snow or rain, and occasionally as an extra layer when sitting around.

It depends, if I was dossing down then setting off up something icy at 2 or 3am.. I would want a decent jacket, that keeps the wind off and traps some heat.

If I was only getting the first phrique up cragging and it might be a bit nippy until the sun swings around, then a windproof fleece would suffice. 

As said above you might still want a good jacket in the valley for those wash out days or thunderstorms, that or an umbrella. (Not as daft as it sounds)

Hi guys

Thanks for all the advice but I’ve bought my self a mid weight waterproof, which will also be used in the uk 

Umbrellas are very good around campsites.