UKC

American looking to climb in UK for July

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 travelguy 05 Jul 2018

which areas anywhere in the UK, if any, are likely (historically) to have good weather in July or at least for the next two weeks ?

which are easiest for finding weekday partners?

I'll follow or toprope up to easy 5.10s (YDS)/easy 6s (French) but haven't climbed for months and so am not up for leading

Trad or sport. 20+ years climbing and very safe.

 

 JackM92 05 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

Kinda looking like everywhere right now

In reply to travelguy:

Whole country exceptionally dry at the moment after weeks of fine weather. Best climbing areas if "changeable" weather sets in are probably: Cornwall, Tremadoc, Pembrokeshire, the Gower, and Devon and Dorset Coasts.

mantelself 05 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

When in Rome....... https://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/

I talk Septic but many will not.

We are a coastal/island area with super mad unpredictable weather. It's currently hot  "af" and we aren't accustomed to this so are all mostly walking around, delirious, talking about it.

In your grade range there are some northern facing  crags that come into condition after a dry spell making "more routes more pleasant". Yet we have also had some moorland fires in those areas. On some crags the friction will be decidedly worse with this heat. This however is "splitting hairs" and will not be a massive issue for you but you might want to drop expectations by a half or full UK grade as new rock type/style might feel usually hard first couple of goes with added humidity. 

Given your reluctance to lead, if you have some "people skills" just go to Stanage, or the like , on any weekday and look "lost, yet friendly" and cultivate your "talk to me face". Solicit seconds as leaders sort out belays.

It sounds as manipulative as fu*k but I have met life long friends this way.

 JRJG 05 Jul 2018
In reply to mantelself:

”It’s currently hot “af” and we aren’t accustomed to this so are all mostly walking around, delirious, talking about it” 

hahaha! Nail on the head there. 

 

JRJG 

 

pasbury 05 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

Post up here when you’ve got an area in mind to find partners. Consider mountain areas given the current conditions, e.g. North Wales, the Lake District. Or the coastal crags in Pembrokeshire or Cornwall.

edit: why not lower the grade and consider leading on easier stuff 5.7 ish. Loads of great routes in the mountains at that grade.

Post edited at 19:00
 stp 05 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

There's not that many places where climbers meet up on a regular basis. Llanberis in North Wales is probably as good as anywhere with tons of excellent, varied climbing in the surrounding area. Pete's Eats cafe is popular with climbers for breakfast so you might find someone there.

But otherwise the internet is probably a better way. There is a lift's and partners section on this web site so take a look on there. I also believe there are several Facebook groups if you use Facebook.

 Kevster 05 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

Meeting random partners at a crag is not always easy, especially at trad crags, for obvious reasons. However the internet is good for this! And from my experience, I have had more positive experiences than negative ones.

Our climbing is fun and varied. Come and enjoy!

OP travelguy 06 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

thanks, all for that helpful info.

I will post on UKC when I have my dates.

Could be interesting to climb with delirious people!

Good point about grades-I should have written that my favorite climbs are classic trad routes, 5.6-5.8, 1-3 pitches.

But the most important factor will be finding partners

If I am doing 5.7 and lower, I would be happy to lead

:- )

 Ann S 06 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

Something you should be aware of before you arrive. During your visit a soccer team called England is going to win the World Cup and therefore that part of the UK called England will either be drunk for a month or have fled the country. Trains, buses and airports will have ground to a halt. You would do well to aim for the Celtic fringes of the UK known as Scotland, Wales and Cornwall. The current spell of rather warm weather will have been replaced by flash floods and raft building skills will be useful. I would therefore recommend heading to the sea cliffs of Cornwall and/or Pembroke. If the hot weather continues you can have a dip in the sea to cool off and if it pisses down, you're only 10 minutes from the nearest pub or cream tea. Enjoy.

pasbury 06 Jul 2018
In reply to Ann S:

Sage advice

 Pay Attention 06 Jul 2018
In reply to travelguy:

Here you go, chief.

Just do the routes on this list, all within your leading capability.  Nothing harder than "wheat thin" at city of rocks.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=8

thank me later ....

Btw the rainy season starts mid July.  If it rains on July 15 it will rain for the forty days thereafter.

PS I'm in Nottingham. Can climb during the week but do not have motor transport to the nearby Peak District cliffs.

 

 

Post edited at 18:22
 BusyLizzie 06 Jul 2018
In reply to Ann S:

Spot on, Ann.


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