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© mellorno1, Sep 2014

Classic Rock ticklist

contributed by lithos Aug/10

A famous collection of great climbs from the 'Classic Rock' book by Ken Wilson (1978), covering routes from all over the UK originally up to a grade of Hard Severe, although many have been subsequently upgraded to VS. The new 2007 edition added four outright routes in the chapter headings: these are Modern and K2 at Hen Cloud. Arrow Route at Sron na Ciche (a connective line accidentally unlisted in the original as it was always described) and Ivy Chimney as a 'continuation' of Milestone Direct (odd as it's atop pulpit route!) .

Please note that alternative names are occasionally used: Black Slab is Hargreaves Original; Mitre Ridge is by the Cumming-Crofton Route. For added depth of adventure look to the text for exciting possibilities: The Orr finish to Labyrinth, making the route VS, is for example well worth hunting out and the HS start to Terrier's Tooth would be sad for any enthusiast to miss, while Bell's incredible finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route is a real cherry on the icing of that little bun! The 2007 edition has a helpful and inspiring appendix of additional and alternative climbs in every part of the country. These are plentiful and will likewise encourage adventure and alternatives.

Articles about the Ken Wilson books and their "puerile tickers" can be found on the Needlesport's Website.

Map of all the route locations:

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer)VD ***1010?Cuillin Ridge...
Cioch DirectS 4a *530150m• 5Sron na Ciche
Arrow RouteVD ***83161m• 2Sron na Ciche
IntegrityVS 4c ***66876m• 2Sron na Ciche
Cioch NoseVD ***792200m• 7Sgurr a' Chaorachain
The Long ClimbVS ***107420m• 11Ben Nevis
Tower RidgeD ***1885600mBen Nevis
Clachaig Gully (Summer)S ***143520mAonach Eagach -...
Archer RidgeS 4a ***375?• 3Aonach Dubh
The Long CrackS **302?Aonach Dubh
Crypt RouteVD ***155?Bidean nam Bian
North Face RouteS *433220mBuachaille Etive Mor
Agag's Groove (Summer)VD ***1657105m• 4Buachaille Etive Mor
The Chasm (Summer)VS ***189450m• 16Buachaille Etive Mor
SquarefaceVD ***359?Beinn a' Bhuird -...
Cumming-Crofton Route (Summer)S ***169?Beinn a' Bhuird -...
Savage Slit (Summer)S ***75880m• 4Cairn Gorm - Cairn...
The Clean SweepVS 4c ***316185m• 4Hell's Lum
The Talisman (Summer)HS 4a ***275100mBen Macdui -...
Eagle Ridge (Summer)S ***768250mLochnagar
Ardverikie WallHS 4b ***1166185m• 6Binnein Shuas
Recess Route (Summer)S ***465110m• 8The Cobbler
Punster's Crack (Summer)S ***646?The Cobbler
Ardgartan ArêteVS 4b **12354m• 3The Cobbler
Sou'wester SlabsVD ***563110m• 5Cir Mhor
LabyrinthVS 4b *113120m• 6Cir Mhor
Little ChamonixVD ***686870m• 4Shepherd’s Crag
Gillercombe ButtressS 4a ***1323?Gillercombe
Troutdale PinnacleS ***3014105m• 6Black Crag...
Bracket and Slab ClimbVS 4b ***114897m• 5Gimmer Crag
Ash Tree SlabsVD ***1335?Gimmer Crag
'C' RouteS 4b ***748?Gimmer Crag
Bowfell ButtressHS 4b ***897110m• 4Bowfell
Murray's RouteS 4a ***847?Dow Crag
Jone's Route Direct from Lord's RakeHS 4b ***224?Scafell Crag
Moss Ghyll GroovesVS 4c ***50279m• 4Scafell Crag
Needle RidgeVD ***1263114m• 5The Napes
The Wasdale CrackHS 4c ***96117m• 2The Napes
Tophet WallHS 4b ***103275m• 4The Napes
New West ClimbVD ***343?Pillar
Rib and Slab ClimbHS 4b ***258?Pillar
Great GullyS ***195267m• 11Craig Yr Ysfa
Gashed CragVD **973190m• 6Tryfan
Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib)D **1258150mTryfan
Grooved ArêteHVD 4a ***3412230m• 8Tryfan
Direct RouteVD ***289885m• 5Tryfan
Pulpit RouteVD **184987m• 5Tryfan
Direct RouteVS 4c ***62988m• 7Glyder Fach
HopeVD ***3776135m• 4Idwal Slabs (aka...
LazarusS 4a ***191243m• 2Idwal Slabs (aka...
The AreteVD **99524mIdwal Slabs (aka...
Grey SlabVS 4b ***34881m• 2Glyder Fawr
NeaVS 4b **168475m• 4Clogwyn y Grochan
Crackstone RibS 4a ***300755m• 3Carreg Wastad
The WrinkleVD **172375m• 3Carreg Wastad
Flying ButtressVD ***256787mDinas Cromlech
Spiral StairsVD ***126884mDinas Cromlech
The CracksHS 4c ***192590m• 6Dinas Mot
Main WallHS 4b ***1325140m• 6Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
Avalanche/Red Wall/LonglandsS 4b **551286m• 12Y Lliwedd
Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***158265m• 2Craig y Castell...
Will o' the WispHVD ***40395m• 6Craig Cywarch (aka...
Red Pencil DirectHS 4b ***265?Pen-y-ghent
Parson's ChimneyHS 4b ***54317mAlmscliff
Sail ButtressHS 4b **268314mBirchen Edge
TopsailVS 4c **347412mBirchen Edge
Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **221716mBirchen Edge
Flying ButtressHVD 4a ***695324mStanage Popular
April CrackHS 4b ***454516mStanage Popular
Hargreaves' OriginalVS 4c ***561418mStanage Popular
Central ClimbVS 4c ***110438m• 3Hen Cloud
ModernVS 4b **57320mHen Cloud
K2S 4b **88030m• 2Hen Cloud
Via DolorosaVS 4c ***147132mRoaches Lower Tier
Black and TansS 4a ***270730m• 2Roaches Upper Tier
Technical SlabHS 4a ***179424mRoaches Upper Tier
Piton RouteVS 4c **94858m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***1164117m• 5Lundy
Demo RouteHS 4b ***307819m• 2Sennen
Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***36340m• 3Chair Ladder
Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***82159m• 5Chair Ladder
DoorpostHS 4b ***312467m• 3Bosigran
Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **91952m• 3The Dewerstone
227 stars115,0817,798m• 276
Users who have completed the full list are:
beds74, Graham Westbrook, mattkemp70, Nigel Bond, jimorothy
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