UKC

Advise - Single pitch crags - North Wales

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 j.richards 20 Jul 2018

Hi,  I'm looking for advice on suitable single pitch crags to take a group to in the Llnaberis, Ogwen, Betws y coed areas. All of the north wales select guides I have cover the mountain crags and multi-pitch venues but there's not so much about crags within SPA remit.  Does anyone knows of a good guide book for these types of crags.

Thanks in advance

J Richards

 SuperLee1985 20 Jul 2018
In reply to j.richards:

*Advice (sorry couldn't resist)

My first thought would be Hollyhead Mountain, not in the pass, but about 30 mins drive from Llanberis, was there at the weekend and really liked the place.

Another option would be to do Slate, assuming you want lower grade routes then Australia would probably be your best bet.

It's also possible (just about) to climb all of the routes at little Tryfan in a single pitch if using 60m ropes, but bare in mind that this will use pretty much every meter of your 60m ropes.

In the Betwys/Blaenau area Craig y Tonnau might be a good option.

All of the above are covered, at least to Some extent, by the North Wales Rockfax.

Going a bit further afield, the Clywd Limestone guide has plenty of single pitch stuff around Llangollen and surrounding areas (Worlds End, Maeshafan Quarry, Pandy Outcrop, Pot Hole Quarry). I haven't actually managed to visit any of these areas yet so I can't speak for their quality.

 

 jezb1 20 Jul 2018
In reply to j.richards:

Holyhead Mountain
Upper Tier Tremadog
Lion / Union Rock
London Crag
Pont y Cromlech
Clogwyn Cyrau
Craig y Tonnau
Some slate areas
Conwy Crag

Most are in the definitive guides.

 bonebag 20 Jul 2018
In reply to j.richards:

You could also try Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf. It's in the CC Ogwen guide. I did an SPA CPD day there and have since been back for single pitch climbing with family. It's behind one of the campsites below Tryfan.

In reply to j.richards:

Search back and there are several other threads on this topic. 

See https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/a5_top_roping-681381 for example.

OP j.richards 22 Jul 2018
In reply to jezb1:

thanks, that's a great start, now to buy some more guide books

 

JR

OP j.richards 22 Jul 2018
In reply to bonebag:

I remember this crag from a previous visit to North Wales but couldn't remember the name. thanks!

JR

 Rog Wilko 24 Jul 2018
In reply to SuperLee1985:

Bear - sorry, couldn't resist.

1
In reply to SuperLee1985:

"Advise" could be correct; it might be intended as the verb (e.g. short for "Please advise") although I doubt it.

After being pedantic you probably should have avoided "Hollyhead", not have capitalised "Some" in the middle of a sentence  or used "meter" for a length rather than a measuring instrument (on UKC we surely expect UK English?). 

 wynaptomos 24 Jul 2018
In reply to Superlee

> "Advise" could be correct; it might be intended as the verb (e.g. short for "Please advise") although I doubt it.

> After being pedantic you probably should have avoided "Hollyhead", not have capitalised "Some" in the middle of a sentence  or used "meter" for a length rather than a measuring instrument (on UKC we surely expect UK English?). 

Not to mention Betwys and Clywd. Where are these?

OP j.richards 25 Jul 2018
In reply to j.richards:

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, advise and corrections.  Ive spent Some time looking at the varicous crags and have choosen a few to try out.  I think Hollyhead mountainis a bit far from where were staying but Betwys and Clywd are a possibility.  The routes at Tryfan are probably a bit long to manage with a group as I'll need a few metres of rope to build anchors.

Now that I've demonstrated some good englishing (and the odd bit of Welsh...) I'm off to do some climbing.

JR


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