In reply to Inhambane:
> I can't find the climb black beauty, do you have any more info on it ?
I think he means The Beauty (TD) which I rated as one of the best climbs we did on our trip/ever done (*****). It has brilliant climbing, rock and vistas and is achievable in a day from the village with no transport. That said the approach is fairly adventurous and not your average walk but is nearly worth 3*s by itself. The route is usually now done by the direct way avoiding a scrappy chimney at one point (as described in the guide we used) and the last pitch which can be missed out is extremely bold laybacking without a very large cam! (our old size 5 friend wouldn't really fit so it ended up being mainly a solo!)
For a guidebook we took the Tony Howard guide and a newer selective guide "Rock around the world" which covers around 30 of the best hit list routes in the rum area: https://www.cordee.co.uk/Rock-Around-the-World-det-0-0-0-15239.html?search=... this we used more or lest exclusively as we found its modern style photo typos, approach directions and maps to be much clearer for a first time visitor with only a limited time to spare.
I would also recommend the short and accessible multipitch Flight of Fancy (6b) (the short version) with a short 20min simple approach from the village. The corner pitch is out of this world!! (****/*)
personally though i wouldn't bother with Black Magic (D+) whilst it is in the same amazing landscape the climb is only really worth **/* as the lower pitches are scrappy with plenty of loose rock on the traverse and only a couple of stand out pitches. It is again a simple walk from the village.
I also would really recommend a night out under the magical stars in Barrah canyon to do Merlin's Wand (6a+) one of the pure best lines we climbed in rum though the climbing itself isn't as good at the routes above. For something more challenging (also at Barrah) with brilliant climbing The Star of Abu Judaidah (ED1) would come highly recommended.