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need a new harness... what do folks recommend?

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David with the blind eye 27 Mar 2019

Hi folks!!

I have a Petzl Adjama. It is a size small but is if anything a little bit too big. I like the style of gear loops but the front two are, for me, ever so slightly too far forward.
Also have a DMM renegade2 in size small but that is ever so slightly too small. I like the number of gear loops but would prefer to have the front two a little further forward, and rigider like on the Petzl.
There are so many harnesses to choose from but it is getting harder and harder to find a shop where you can try many on, they often don't have certain sizes etc.
So I am prepared to order half a dozen or so from the interweb to try on and send some back.
Hopefully the combined experience and harness knowledge of everyone here will help me narrow down from the available choices so I don't have to wade through hundreds!
If anyone knows of a harness that is like the adjama, but with front two loops slightly further back and available in a size a smidge smaller than Petzl's small, that'd be the golden ticket and I'd be grateful to know which of the hundreds available it is!

I climb indoor and also trad (even in bad weather), not alot of outdoor sport, don't ice climb yet although I will do one day.


Thanks for reading!!

 Otis 27 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

Before ordering several online I'd suggest checking the shop returns policy as there's a risk harnesses may be classed as PPE and, therefore, non-returnable  

Best of luck with your search!

David with the blind eye 27 Mar 2019
In reply to Otis:

Already checked with loads of on line retailers, got one that said "as long as all tags are intact, the harness is returned undamaged, in original packaging and no significant wear. If it's obviously only been tried for fit then we will happily refund."

They will get my money.

 Otis 28 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

Sounds like good service to me-glad you've found somewhere helpful!

 HeMa 28 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

Start be narrowing it down to which models are offered in the right size.

You stated that both Adjama and Renegade felt a tad too big in the S-size. So look for models that go smaller than either... and remember, you can also check womens harnesses, provided you have some quads (again check the sizes from yer current harnesses and compere to what is available).

Then try a few models that might be good.

If the positionin of the gearloops really bugs ya, perhaps get one of the Ocun WeeBee harnesses (if the sizes are OK). Then you can simply cut off the loops and create yer own perfectly placed ones simply by threading accessory cord (4mm I seem to recall) throught the holes on the mesh-waistbelt. Add some clear plastic tubing to make them more rigid and thread & tie the other end.

I did this to add ice-clipper loops and a fifth loop at the back on my WeeBee 1s for winter ice.

 nufkin 28 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

Have you tried the Hirundos? From memory they seemed to be a little smaller than the Adjamas. They also do an XS. If you want/need manually adjustable legs it wouldn't suit, but it seems a good harness otherwise.

 Neil Williams 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Otis:

> Sounds like good service to me-glad you've found somewhere helpful!


Oddly, I'd perhaps go with the opposite - much as this is very convenient and I'm sure will work well for you I'd be wary of buying PPE from somewhere where someone else may have had it first and e.g. contaminated it invisibly with something that might reduce its strength.

 brianjcooper 28 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

I've got a medium sized Renegade 2 which I use for both indoor and outdoor climbing.

I also have a WC Syncro M/L size for outdoors. It has seven gear loops, ideal for Trad, and has two front buckles which allows plenty of adjustment for clothing options. A bit expensive, but comfortable and not bulky.  And the gear loop positions are good too on the Syncro.

 Simon.md 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Neil Williams:

Surely all online shops have to allow returns up to 14 days under Consumer Contracts Regulations?

It's worth checking the policy though, eg Cotswolds state they destroy any returned climbing equipment.

 whenry 28 Mar 2019
In reply to David with the blind eye:

Try the Climbing Technology Wall or Ascent harnesses - they're basically the same but with different construction methods. I bought a Wall because I thought the gear loop placement was good, and the fit was good too (I bought a small and have a 30" waist). I also liked the Edelrid Cyrus and Orion harnesses when I was trying different ones on (size small).

 Neil Williams 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Simon.md:

I *think* but may be wrong that there are exceptions for things like PPE and underwear.

In reply to David with the blind eye:

If you're near Bristol Banana Fingers carry a huge stock of harnesses!

Try loads on


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