UKC

If you were asked to paint a picture of North York Moors climbing, you'd be forgiven for imagining a land of little brown rocks, poking out from the peaty heather waste. The hard sandstone 'acid bog' landscape does indeed dominate the north of the region, but to the south, a rolling fertile world of gentle dales and bright white houses stands in radical contrast to the harsh hills that lie only a few miles away. This is the home of Moors Limestone, where the climbing is mostly massive, juggy and adventurous. Be sure to pack a big sandwich, a helmet and a substantial rack of hexes.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

More articles like this please, climbing articles.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Happy to oblige!

We've just received a great (albeit esoteric) offering from Stu Bradbury on Cornish Off-widths, which should be a laugh. Besides that there's Chee Tor destination article I've been working on for several years (not because it's any good, more because I am - apparently - a very slow worker).

Sure Natalie has more in the pipeline, but there's a couple for starters

In reply to UKC Articles:

Peak Scar is intimidating! I once figured if I could tick the HVSs there, I could climb E2 most other places... and wasn't wrong, though maybe that's more a reflection on my climbing style than the crag...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Cornish offwidths sounds awesome - really excited for that one!

In reply to Blake:

It's by the same guy that wrote 'Hostile Terrain', which probably gives you a good flavour of what's in store. Got everything from Hard Severe up to in/around E5, so something for (nearly) everyone

Having laid it all out yesterday it's looking amazing. I'm both inspired and intimidated...

In reply to UKC Articles:

You forgot to mention the cave at peak scar Franco.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

given it's about offwidths I'm assuming more of the in than the around?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

When are we getting Parnell to do one about Exmoor sandstone? Apparently you need pick axes taped to your wrists to climb it...

In reply to UKC Articles:

Been to both these venues a couple of times (but not for a good few years) and always found the climbing interesting and challenging for my very limited talents. I can still remember the excitement of on-sighting (not a phrase I understood at the time) Jam with Sam (VS 4b) in 1972, when I'd scarcely done a VS before. It was then 20 years before I plucked up courage to do Night Watch, even though it was only Hard Severe in the old guidebook I was using. My ukc log entry says simply "Sensational route".

I seem to remember Peak Scar being guarded by some really discouraging nettle beds later in the season.

Edit: I see that as far as ukc is concerned only Dave Musgrove got there (J with S) before me.