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Mount Kazbek / Georgia

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 dsiska 24 Feb 2020

Hello UKClimbing,

Thinking about a trip to Georgia in April to go up Mount Kazbek (with skis). If there's anyone out there who's done this recently I'd really appreciate any advice they would be willing to share.

Cheers,
David

 leon 1 24 Feb 2020
In reply to dsiska:

Have a look at the last post on this thread  from a couple of weeks ago with a report on Kazbek    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/expedition+alpine/elbrus_in_april-7155...

Post edited at 17:19
 tjdodd 24 Feb 2020
In reply to dsiska:

I walked up it 3 years ago (I think).  This was a summer trip - July I think.

Georgia was a really interesting place and strongly recommend visiting as much as you can whilst there. 

It is a ~1400m day from the village in the valley up to the base camp area - you can camp part way to break the day up but is was perfectly manageable in one day.  Reasonably straightforward in the summer with most of it walking in nice Alpine fields.  There was a stream crossing that you had to be a bit careful of and then a glacier crossing below the hut.  The glacier was dry when we did it but heavily crevassed.  We didn't rope up or use crampons as there was a lot of grit and crevasses should have been easily navigable (until we messed up a bit and had to jump across crevasses which was not the most enjoyable).  I guess this will be a wet glacier when you do it.

The hut is a hut in name only.  No facilities other than bunk beds.  The main issue is the whole base camp area is one big toilet.  Plenty of space for camping.  There was running water coming off the upper glacier that was clean.  But be really careful about hygiene.

We acclimatized a bit more above base camp and then had a rest day.  It was then a big ~1400m push to the summit.  First part was over rocky terrain for a couple of hours ish.  We then put on crampons and roped up.  The upper wet glacier was very heavily crevassed but good snow bridges when we went up (less good and therefore interesting on the way down).  There was also quite a bit of rockfall from the surrounding peaks.  Depending on snow cover and temperature I would assume April should be fine.

The route was mainly a simply snow trudge.  The final section was steepish, icy and needed protecting with ice screws.  This was a short section though and again I would guess snow covered when you do it.  Great views from the summit.

Obviously conditions will be different for you in April and skiing but hope that helps.

 JohnV 24 Feb 2020
In reply to tjdodd:

I skiied it in 2013. We spent 4 nights total up at the meteo station (the hut). Yes, pretty basic in there. Snowmelt off the roof helped us a lot as we struggled to find canned gas in Tblisi. There was an external toilet building there. We took a day to get to the hut and check out the scenes, next day climbed and skiied Ortsveri to the south for some acclimatisation and to check out the south face of Kasbek. Glaciated terrain so full crevasse rescue gear and knowledge needed. The next day we then went to the top of Kasbek and skiied its south face. The ascent was all on skins except for a short ice wall and some bare ice sections on the final slope (boot crampons). We skiied some couloirs near the hut the final day and then skiied out back to Stepantsminda to a guesthouse for a much needed shower. 

In Tblisi the hostel we stayed at organised a taxi to take us to Stepantsminda, the driver (Irakli, in a 1992 Astra automatic) took us to a guesthouse he knew, and the guesthouse helped us get a 4x4 Lada to the snowline. I think we then phoned the driver during the ski back down to ask him to collect us, but who knows how we managed to get the message across that we needed collecting- we only had a few words of Russian between us, let alone Georgian. 

There would be other objectives to go and ski from the hut, so you could spend longer up there exploring and acclimatising. Amazing place.

Fire away with specific questions!

 Lrunner 26 Feb 2020
In reply to dsiska:

Did it in 2015 in September and was ace, pretty much as described above. About Scottish 1 for a bit.  We had a wild dog follow us all the way to the top which kind of puts it in perspective!

You can get the map from Amazon and the route description is on summit Post.

As a country Georgia is lovely. 

Lawrence


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