In reply to UKC Articles:
I m a convert to crack climbing and love it but at a recent comp there was a Wide Boyz crack and inside was blood and given that there were probably 200+competitors on the day I'm not sure its a good move for competitions.
I think at the moment cracks are fun in comps as they split the field. Those with traditional background can laugh at the hop skip and jump youngsters flailing up cracks. However once they learn how to jam its going to be difficult split the field because as the article says there is always a way.
Maybe in the future we will see more niche competitions? More footless campus comps and crack fest comps to go alongside other niche comps like Dry tooling and speed climbing?
Remember, once you can jam everything is a jug right?