UKC

Looking for a pair of scarpa crux or similar. I tried on a pair the other day, and they felt like they would be nice to climb in, but definitely would smash my toes into the end of them if used walking down a steep hill...

What is the best way of fitting these kinds of shoes? Obviously leaving as much space as you would a walking boot isn't a good idea as they will flex like hell?

Any thoughts?

The answer is: accept that they'll flex.Most approach shoes are just grippy trail running shoes without the lumpy soles and a thinner midsole so you can scramble across rock easily. Designed for the approach, not the climb. Hence 'approach shoes'.

If you want something to approach and also climb in, how about a pair of light b1 boots? Something like Scarpa's Ribelle MTN Tech? Salomon Alps? What exactly is it you want to climb in them?

In la sportivas I take 45 for heavy boots, 44.5 when I want a more technical fit and 44 for my tx4s. I think they're brilliant for walking in and climb really well on easy routes, although I'd draw the line somewhere around severe. The undersides of my feet get a bit sore after a long day of walking because the soles are a bit thin and they're also more flexible now than when I bought them.

I've found Sportiva Ganda Guide, with a high ankle, good. Its got a stiffish sole so one can have adequate toe room. Sole has rock climbing area on toe and a large, shallow stud pattern. However they are half way to being a very light boot. Not sure if they are still in production. I bought cheapo thin insoles from Boots in case I needed to fill a little of the volume.

I also have the Salomon X Alp Mountain GTX which is definitely a boot and has a lateral stiffening in the sole. 

 For just approach and rock I prefer the Ganda (they were excellent in the Cuillin for instance).

Edit. There's another thread at present: Salomon Boots ? 

Frankly just put your shoes on. It means you climb way more efficiently which saves energy all round (good on alpine stuff) and means the rock doesn't get dirty (good on popular stuff). 

If the route is really so long and simultaneously so hard that you really need a pair for the crux that are too tight to wear all day, then that's how it is - but this combination is pretty rare and I've personally found that even on big days I can get away with a medium-snug fit and just pull the heels off at belays, or if the terrain is that steady then we'll simul-climb so we're not on the route as long anyway (did this to great effect this year on Via dell'Amicizia (VII) - 700m in 5hrs and 6 pitches).

Apologies if this is all obvious, it's hard to tell online. When it comes to shoes the TX range from La Sportiva is generally a good choice - I have a pair 1 size down or so from usual street size and they can cover reasonable distance without issue and also aren't fully shit on rock. You could also look at the Salewa Wildfire Edge which have a special lacing system to adjust the tightness of the toebox etc which helps it climb better when you need it. 

Hope this helps! 

I mostly use "approach" shoes for actual climbing - easy alpine rock routes & the like - so I size them for confidence on rock, which does inevitably sacrifice hiking comfort.

For actual approaches I just wear running shoes.