In reply to UKC Articles:
Fantastic article Neil.
I haven't worked my way through the entire article, but the first section on Intensity scale is amazingly similar to Lily's own structure she worked on recently to get herself going.
1) Base Strength - She basically started at her 6a's and worked through the entire selection until she got into the 6c's. About 40 climbs (Huge points 28800). The fatigue by the 6c's was huge (Depends on how many climbs are loaded). She absolutely loves this session. We asked Digi boards to put a clock timer on the system to help pace the climbs so we can aim to pace it properly and not burn out so quickly on lower grades.
2) Mid Volume - This tends to be a 'normal' session. Warm up then a nice set of problems ranging from hard to very hard. I must admit this is the hardest one to set for. Climbs which can be achieved within 6 goes but not flashed are not easy to set. Especially when you haven't built up much fatigue. Again on the Digi board we tend to use the 7's that have no more than 2 or 3 ticks for this. Quite often we will mirror the problems to try to find any issues she has.
3) Max Strength - We did comp rehearsal on this. 5 mins on 5 mins off. 5 climbs which she has not managed to do more than a move or so. This is the hardest to motivate for and also the hardest on her body. It is brutal on the fingers (Properly warmed up and ready) and everything else. Again, the digi boards timer has helped with this.
I am shocked at how close her style of training has mirrored your suggestions (I had zero input, she put them together with her mum).
