UKC

Curved Ridge (Grade-3)

Weather permitting, I may be attempting Curved Ridge this Sunday - any tips?

I've been up it twice in summer so I'm moderately familiar with the route (though I did make the mistake of heading up D gully buttress on one of those occasions... on my own)

Seeing as I've only ever done grade 1 stuff before, I'll be seconding the pitches.

Is it really on the low end of Scottish winter grade 3? 

Where should we consider pitching? And what gear is best- I'm thinking slings, hexes, and big nuts... or would small nuts also be a good idea?

We haven't done any winter stuff for 2 years - just some indoor climbing, and some infrequent trad and scramble adventures

Any advice would be very welcome

I don't remember it feeling like a grade III, though it will depend on the conditions, but at the moment, I doubt that you will get lots of consolidated snow, or ice.

I would take a rock rack, and follow the route that most suits you from what you can see ahead, as there are variations. 

Pitching probably depends on those ahead of you, and space available. It may pay to belay from a place of good anchorage, if the people in front are going slowly, and just make use of the circumstances. If they are going more smoothly, then emulate their plan, and follow in their footsteps.

I wonder how many times people have accidentally ended up on D gully buttress?

Quite a few I reckon - it's so indistinct at that section. If you see small sapling-like vegetation, you're too far left. I climbed a good distance before realising my mistake, then downclimbed steep soggy terraces while trending northwards to eventually meet the very start of the ridge. It was early, I was alone, in the clag, and shortly after heading up the first steep'ish section I looked back to discover I was climbing out of an inversion - justice for the terrifying start to my first solo scramble. I squeezed in a jaunt up crowberry tower to cap it off. A great memory, and one which I'd like to compliment on Sunday.

Thank you for the advice. I'm feeling a bit less anxious for it

I suspect the biggest hazard is the descent. That bowl below the top is nasty for windslab, so stay switched on when the technical bit is over. 
 

b

Thank you. Absolutely.

We'll stick to our left on the way down Coire na Tulaich (on the right as you look up from the road)

Been up multiple times, summer and winter. Never had to pitch in winter, always soloed it. Previous poster is right, riskiest bit is the summit slope which is often laden and avalanche prone; never figured out if there’s a way of avoiding it though! Good luck, watch the SAIS forecast and blog, and enjoy it.

Similar to others I’ve done it a few times. Albeit quite a few years ago now. I think we pitched the first section and the wall higher up. Unnecessary TBH, but I’ve always erred on the side of caution. I found it relatively straightforward. If in doubt do what works best for you. A few big bits n bobs should do you. If you do pitch anything you’ll not need more than a couple of runners per pitch.

We used to avoid the gully / bowl by scrambling up from the notch / high point behind crowberry tower summer or winter.  Easier ground than curved ridge and far more enjoyable than the gully scree in summer or dodgy feeling snow in winter!

Stu

I remember climbing it with deep fresh snow over previously dry rock and was surprised how awkward some bits especially crux was. 

Did you manage to get on it? Your logbook doesn't show an entry. Sadly, you may have missed the window, as the face is now basically snow free.

The difficulty is very conditions dependent. A small coating of snow, a brief melt, and then a good freeze is ideal as it fills the cracks with usable ice. A covering of soft powder snow is far from ideal, as you can only get purchase on rock holds but they are all buried and hidden.

I find the crux to be lower down, in one of the early steep sections, but maybe it's because it's near the beggining and I'm still getting mentally dialled in. The "official crux" is good fun and not as exposed as other places. 

There are alternative ways down if the Coire is an avalanche risk. You can head further south before turning west, or even come directly down the front of the mountain, but I wouldn't recommend that unless snow cover there is light.

As for D Gully Buttress, made the same error myself on a clagged in day! The rock character is quite different, downward sloping holds instead of the jugs you get on curved ridge. 

I remember many years ago going up North Buttress, being guided by Mick Tighe, as I had no-one to climb with otherwise, and joined his small group. We descended via Curved Ridge. I was amazed that he did not feel responsible and make us rope up to descend the route, as the guide. So we soloed it quite quickly, but there was a good amount of ice about, which presumably seldom happens now.