UKC

Hi there, 

I'm planning to go climbing in the Swanage area. I don't have a climbing partner so I usually use a single line set up from a top anchor with a gri-gri and micro traxion. 
I haven't done much lead climbing yet so I feel safer with that set up. 
I know the Winspit Quarry has bolts in but is not clear if a the top. 
Any other places anyone knows where I can easily set up a top anchor? Thank you in advance 

In reply to Samuel81:

A friend of mine regularly toprope solos at Subluminal, so I guess that would be a good shout. As long as you’re ok setting up 100% solid trad/stake anchors obviously. 

In reply to Samuel81:

I think that you might have problems at Winspit; as with most sport-climbing venues, the lower-offs won't be easy to access from the top.

Subluminal is the best place to start, in my opinion: access from Swanage is easy, there are stakes that you can use for your top anchors, and most of the routes come straight up from the non-tidal platform. I had a happy session shunting there last year just after travel restrictions ended.

Cattle Troughs will also give easy options. Other sectors of the sea-cliffs are possible, but would be more adventurous.

In reply to Andy Hemsted:

Agreed, and it being and old quarry the top of the crag looks very loose in places, I wouldn't want go to close to the edge up there.  Wouldn't even go up there tbh.

In reply to Samuel81:

As others have said, Subluminal is best. While there are possibilities at Cattle Troughs, would not advise you going there. If you get lost along the way (it's happened) and go anywhere else, you'll almost certainly be in a world of trouble. 

The Sub stakes are bomber. Still, never go off just one. Always wear a helmet. Be very aware of the presence of other climbers - especially below you. Be warned - the ledges at the bottom may feel sunny and safe - but they can be swept by rogue waves. If you go into the sea at this time of the year, it's over. 

If you meet people at the top and they suggest climbing with you, you'll need to make a value judgement as to how competent they are. Tricky. 

Alternative suggestion. Go to Portland and climb with others in a much safer environment. There's a Facebook Dorset Climbers group. There's also a group loosely based around a climbing wall in Weymouth - the Aloft. You don't need to have visited the wall to be in the group. Although it's closed, in practice, anyone can ask to get on and they'll be put on. If you get on that, you'll find people who'll sort you out. I would - but I'm in Spain. 

If you haven't done much lead climbing, I'm guessing these are relatively early days for you. Early days are by far the most dangerous. Best to hook up with folk who really know what they're doing, take it steady and learn from them.

Good luck!  

Mick 

In reply to Mick Ward: thank you Mick!! Yh I always wear helmet and set up 2/3 points anchors 
haven't done much leading cause I'm a chef with an all over the place schedule, really hard to match days off with ppl 

In reply to Andy Hemsted: Thank you Andy!! 

In reply to Samuel81:

If your up to it ocean boulevard has an abseil anchor (two stakes) above it. You'll need to be able to climb the static rope if you fall off as it's quite overhanging but it's 'popular' as a rope solo. If you cant climb e3 5c then stay clear. 

In reply to Samuel81:

Have you ever abseiled in to a sea cliff before now? I know it sounds like a silly question but its a whole heap of difference as compared to going to an inland crag. Also be warned swanage does have a reputation for loose rock, subliminal is somewhat more solid at least. Make sure you know how to prussic up a rope in case you need to! Also be warned but mobile phones dont get a signal on most of the sea cliffs.

In reply to Samuel81:

Personally I'd go for a sport crag. 

Either find one with the tops accessible (some parts of Portland are good for this). 

Or

Get good with a clip stick and gri gri is another alternative 

Or 

Go to a popular crag and get other climbers to join in the fun. Maybe put your rope up for you?

Or just belay you. 

Sport crags where they're bolted tend to have clean rock, straight lines, easier approach, options if you fail or fall off. 

Have fun. Be safe.  

In reply to Kevster:

In addition to the above, take extreme care when above the anchors at a sport crag, more so than trad venues as:

- The area above the anchor has no traffic to keep it clean, so expect to find loose rock.

- Its more likely to have others at the crag below you

In reply to Mick Ward:

I have to say, Swanage is not the first place that comes to mind for a little relaxed soloing.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

You're absolutely right. But I didn't want to be a total killjoy. And appreciate Samuel's got a tricky schedule. Would still be happier though if he went to Portland on days off and met people. 

Subluminal was about the only bit of Swanage where the rock seemed solid enough for normal soloing. I used to have a lovely little circuit. But in the end I thought, 'Is it worth it?' And of course, once the question was asked, there was really only one answer.

Mick 

In reply to Samuel81:

You can walk round the seaward side of the far side of the West Quarry at Winspit and clip the anchors from above - some of Warm Love, Crag Diva, Think About It and Uno Mas are reachable from above (can't remember exactly which ones). The top is fine with a bit of care, lie down to reach over to the anchors.

Alternatively some of the short areas on Portland you can clip the anchors from the ground with a long Betastick - thinking Lost Valley, Dungecroft, the Bower at the Cuttings, Sharbutts at Blacknor.

It's also an easy solo up one side of Nicodemus' Knob to clip anchors from above (not done this - but from memory they would be reachable if you lay down on top).

In reply to Samuel81:

where are you based? The Southampton climbing Club are a friendly bunch join those guys for a day or two.  The square and compass is amazing. Swanage isn't a place I would be keen on soloing even with a rope. How ever if you do, take a jumar! Trying to climb a rope with a prussic is an interesting experience.