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Jacks Rake Help

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 J.upton94 06 Jul 2022

So having done Tryfan and Crib Goch multiple times each, i'm wanting to dabble in the classic Lake District scrambles.
Can anyone give me a comparison for what Jacks rake is like?
Is the Exposure that much worse than Crib Goch, and are the challenging moves that hard?

 mrphilipoldham 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

There's only one point really with any exposure from memory, you sort of come out of the gully line on to the crest which forms it's left hand wall and there's a drop away from it. There is also one narrow step across a drainage line around half way which I found the scariest, if the same memory serves! 

 Jenny C 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

Far less exposed than Crib Goch, although harder actual climbing. From memory only two very short sections which are exposed, one of which can be avoided.

Unlike Tryfan no navigation issues or route choices. It looks more imposing from the bottom, but once you start climbing its probably easier.

Post edited at 11:23
 Offwidth 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

It's not simple to answer. I've been with people who are fine with something more resembeling easy climbing, like Jack's  Rake, as they feel secure with three points of contact at all times but get very wobbly on exposed paths and start crawling. Equally others who were confident walking across exposed terrain like Crib Goch who were very nervous on Jack's Rake as it diagonals up a steep cliff.  It's not fair to describe Jack's Rake as not exposed as it is very steep and monolithic for it's grade and once someone gets nervous that groove will steepen up in their imagination.  It is inside a groove for most of the way, yet the short midway crux is noticeable and as the outside edge of the groove runs out, it feels very exposed. My advice is try some lakeland grade 1 gill scramblles, with steps between ledges first.

 Mark Eddy 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

The exposure is different to Crib Goch as JR is a groove not a ridge. That's not to say there's no exposure, it's just different and as has been mentioned people will cope differently to this. JR probably has slightly trickier moves at times, but on the whole this may not even be noticed. It is more often damp/wet though as it is a natural drainage line. There is also plenty of loose material in there. I was on JR this Monday and 4 people (2 parties) turned back due to the damp rock and stream running down it.

In terms of quality scrambling, it is excellent. 

 Abu777 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

I would say that Jack's Rake feels more exposed in places than Crib Goch. Although yes for much of the scramble you're ensconced in a gully, you're aware all the time that there are cliffs above and below you, and when you come out of the gully features you're often met with wide open vistas and can be close to the edge of the drop at times. For many, this contrast might heighten the sense of exposure. I've also found it easy to get drawn onto the left-hand 'edge' of the gully in a couple of places - then you're climbing a rib and again it can feel very exposed. Towards the top, scrambling up the bigger areas, route finding isn't always immediately obvious. The rock is excellent throughout though. All that said, it's easy to go off-piste on Tryfan and find yourself in all sorts of over-exposed positions, so if you've been comfortable on Tryfan and Crib Goch I'd highly recommend Jack's Rake as a next step. I've had more problems finding the route back down off the top of Pavey Ark, especially in mist, so bear that in mind also.

 tagscuderia 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

Tryfan via the North Ridge? All obstacles taken direct... ? If yes then Jack's Rake will fly by without any challenge.

If you've repeated the classic Grade 1 horseshoes, you may have climbed Milestone Gully, which for comparison is steeper, more exposed and physically harder than Jack's Rake. Main Gully on Glyder Fach is harder also.

I'd put the rake as equal to Senior's Gully; I won't comment on exposure because it doesn't affect me, so I don't notice it. But if Jack's Rake isn't the quintessential introduction to Grade 1 scrambling, then I don't know what could be. Enjoy

1
 Offwidth 06 Jul 2022
In reply to tagscuderia:

Several  people have explained  carefully why both Crib Goch and Jack's Rake might not be a quintessential introduction to grade I. Something less exposed and more escapable being better. Some of the scrambles you quote are indeed harder, being grade II

1
 Offwidth 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

Forgot to add a recent thread on Jack's Rake with lots more discussion.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/hill_talk/jacks_rake-745759

 kaiser 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

OP I regularly scramble at G2 & G3 in North Wales and none of those routes (possible exception of the crux of Dolmen Ridge) intimidates me more than walking round the tarn towards JR with the terrifying bulk of Pavey Ark towering above, the Rake itself an improbable and precarious slash across its face...

Once on the route its fine, but it's got a high jibber factor IMV

OP J.upton94 06 Jul 2022

Cheers everyone for the replies!
Makes me look forward to doing it even more really. 

 Offwidth 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

I remember feeling just like kaiser on the approach the first time I did it (when I was progressing through easier scrambles). Once on it, it was a blast and I even did the tricky more direct finish....others I know had a nervous time.  I'm not trying to put you off just being honest about different experiences from different people I know. Enjoy.

 Billhook 06 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

I've taken a group of 16/17 years olds up it some years ago. I can't recall it being a problem for them or me, or my wife.

 peppermill 07 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

You'll be fine mate just take care if it's wet as it's pretty polished.

Probably your biggest risk is climbers walking down Jack's Rake after doing some routes on Pavey Ark taking great pleasure in causing chaos by going against most of the traffic. 

Promise I've never ever done this ;p

 ipfreely 08 Jul 2022
In reply to J.upton94:

there is a video of it on ukc, its steady, there is a bit near the top where you move further left looking in before finishing up the slabs, going direct too early near the top is a bit more tricky

https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/hill_walking/jacks_rake_pavey_...


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