UKC

Hypothetically if a lead autobelay device (similar to top rope autobelay) were to exist and be used in gyms and potentially be taken outdoors, would you use it? Assuming it could protect from big whippers, was fully certified with safety regulations and trusted by people.

What like this one...  youtube.com/watch?v=DQBLkjbQ1iQ&

I barely trust the top rope autobelays!  

Is that not just an autobelay?

The problem is that the machine (unless very very advanced) wouldn't know how soft to catch. Different falls require different forces of catch.

Depends on the specs. Realistically probably not.

Can the hypothetical device read your body language and get ready to take?

Can it anticipate when you're about to clip (and on which rope)?

Can it respond to instructions you shout at it?

Can it remind you to clip when it thinks you're about to miss a clip?

I think the only thing that can do all those is another human.

No, what would be the point! Unless it were voice controlled it'd deliver none of the benefits of leading with none of the benefits of a toprope.

jk

Yes, you are correct, my mistake. I thought I was linking the lead version that was developed in italy recently.

New link:  youtube.com/watch?v=Qtk3zpj9z5A&

Of course having someone to belay you would better! I was more thinking if there was no one to belay you it could be the next best thing

if you take it outdoors, you will need to fix it to something!!!

Interesting - if that's their latest promotional video, why would they show a fall from below the bolt?

Looks like the machines pay out the rope like my climbing partner.

E

How do you get back down if you can't get to the top to push the release button? Same with the rope one on the other video? Maybe possible to climb down very slowly so they dont lock up?

I reckon there is just a person behind the wall feeding the rope out through the black box !

I’d imagine the device knows the difference between the forces generated by a fall, and those generated by someone climbing and just lowers slowly after it’s taken a fall. Would be fairly straightforward to engineer?

I guess the main point would be it allow you to work steep sport routes without a partner - which a top-rope auto-belay can't do as you would hit the floor on the swing.

It would also allow you to practice lead falling without a partner, so keeping the fear of falling under control.

I can't see a use outdoors - you'd need special anchors set for them, and clipsticking and shunting works - but in the gym I can see it being very useful, as long as the mechanism for pulling slack is smooth enough.

Lead autobelays on a comp wall would be great for people who work shifts and can't train at the same time as their mates, or people who travel a lot and turn up at gyms where they don't know anyone.

And can it roll a ciggy while belaying you?

You make a very valid argument, would the device also let you know if you 'Z clipped'. Probably not. No machine can replace human intuitiveness. 

Never send a machine to do a humans job. 

Not sure if rolling up is included in the base model or if you need to pay for an option pack but this is from Musk so I'm sure rolling up is going to be available. Personally I want one that can shoot lasers out of its eyes, no lasers no deal!

This is the future of solo belaying, can carry a rucksack/rope bag and carry a tray of pints to the table also

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-63100636

Good point that I hadn't thought of. I do a lot of my wall endurance mileage on autobelays - easier than finding a partner who's willing to belay for long interval or ARC sessions. But toprope autobelays are limited to more or less vertical, so I tend to miss out on training on the steep stuff.

Of course, the flip side of that is if you can train steep limestone sport endurance on a comp wall with no partner, the gym will probably have to expand its comp wall space to accommodate demand for long sessions - which I guess takes up a lot more space than vertical walls or boulder endurance circuits.

Indeed - you'd be screwed on an overhanging route!

Optimus?

He’ll have to arrange a deal with Amazon’s fast delivery service, just for the name!!