UKC

I’m considering getting a moonboard for my garage but I would prefer to get the full size rather than the mini. 
The issue I have is that the full size fitted into my garage would have to be set at an angle of 48degrees due to roof height.  

 Has anyone else climbed on a moonboard set at between 45-50 degrees and if so did it feel considerably harder than the recommended 40 degrees?

TIA. 👍

like any board, I find anything past 40 degrees absolutely desperate. If you’re making your own, rather than buying the boards from ben? If so, from a practical point of view, you can reduce the height/eliminate the kickboard and/or bring down the vertical bolt to bolt spacing slightly from the standard 8 inches to get the wall to 40 degrees.

It will make a huge difference on some moves, and not much difference on others. Moves on slopey holds will be affected much more than moves on incut holds.

It'll still be a good training tool, but expect grades to make even less sense than on a usual moonboard.

Personally, I would look at what angle board works best for the space and what I wanted to train, and I would build that. But then I think there are a lot of setups that are more effective for most people than a moonboard.

I was planning on buying the kit from ben but building the framework myself. I built an 8 foot, 45 degree board at my last house and it was fine but not quite long enough imo. I haven’t held the moonboard holds so can’t imagine if they will feel bad at 48 degrees or doable all be it a bit harder at the grades. 🤔

I have had a 45 degree board in my old house but I feel I would benefit from the moonboard system in my new house now. 
Im also building a 25 degree board and campus board in the garage to go with the moonboard so plenty of training options. 👍

just make a smaller version of the normal. thats what I've done, you can shrink the kick board a bit, and you could shrink the spacing between the rows. if I were you I would take more off the top half and less off the bottom half (anything off below row 6 makes for bunched starts, I shrank everything by 10% and I wouldn't do that next time). you won't need to change much at all if you could fit it in at 50 degrees, it'll be easy

also im sure you know this, but you only need to buy the hold sets (2016 is really good and not too expensive). you just build the frame, and drill the grid on the ply yourself. pretty cheap (compared to buying any kit!!)

There's a moonboard group on Facebook. Quite a few Americans on there and a lot of experience. This question has been discussed there and some good solutions have been thought out.

I've had a 50° board in the past and I've had a 40° board. I currently have a moonboard at 40°. I would say that is is well worth having it at 40° or as close as possible for it to work really. Steeper and it's going to get really hard and 48° feels like it would change the board. A lot of the benefit of the board comes from the climbs set by other people and the community online.

If you can have e.g. just one line of footholds on a shorter kickboard and shave a few mm off the top of the board you might be able to get it closer to 40°.

Thanks for the replies everyone.👍👌

A few great suggestions here. I reckon if I drop the kickboard down to a minimum one row, I should be able to get it close to just over 40 degrees. 

Will check my sizes tomorrow after work. 😎

Cheers. 🤘

I have the full set of red holds available if you're interested (and LEDs)

If you can’t replicate the angle of a standardised board then IMO there’s little point in setting up a standardised board. I’d make the biggest board I could find, buy/make my own (wood) holds and go nuts

just about to move into our new house with a big garage. The boards in the garage will be pretty much exclusively wooden holds, one symmetrical and one splatter

Totally disagree with this. Our board is non standard and I bloody love it. Some start are bunched, some of the long moves up are a bit shorter. I’m 5’7. Do I care, no. Is climbing on it mega good fun, yes! 
 

you don’t get on the MB for the grades, it’s good because of the movement, the problems and the holds. I wouldn’t chop the kickboard down too much, and I also would not make it more than 40°, some/many of the holds are kind of small or slopey!

I’ve been told the red holds are brutal and a lot of folk saying don’t get them unless you are mega strong. 🙈🤣

For me the holds and movement are the two worst things about the moonboard! I see the appeal of having a bunch of problems you don’t need to set/you can try “with” your mates far away however. Interesting how these things are different to different people 🤷‍♂️ 

  Beautiful. I’m not at all jealous.

I think they're a real combo as they had the easiest holds on the board for me - a proper mix of jugs, pinches and nasty nasty skinny shit

2016 all the way 

Does your garage have a flat or pitched roof? 

I was able to get the full height needed for a 40 degree moonboard by building into the garage loft/roof space.

Obviously this required some substantial reinforcement before cutting the joists, but it's been rock solid since construction. 

Happy to share some photos if you've the option to do the same?

My roof is a flat ceiling and cant go any higher as it’s underneath one of the bedrooms. 👍

Cut hole in roof, attach moonboard to to underside of bed, add hinges to bed!