UKC

Hi folks.  I'm heading to Sölden austria for a week of skiing in late December/early January.  I've heard there's ice climbing in the area, and I have some questions.

1-Any idea how conditions are typically in late December/early January?  Where I live in Switzerland, it can be hit or miss that time of year.

2-Any relevant guide books that are available to order?

3-Any reccomendations for a local guide from the area?  I am experienced ice climber, but as I will be traveling, I might book a day with a guide just to see some new places and get some climbing in with as little complication as possible.

4-Any specific reccomendtions regarding climbs?  I often top rope solo on ice climbs, so a crag-type venues where I can access the top from above, or via easy ice, and then set up a top rope on harder stuff might be cool.  Or a longer and easier multi-pitch climb that I can lead rope solo.

OK, any input appreciated.  All the best. 

I've only been there later in the year so can't comment on early season conditions, but the icefalls on the road between Oetz and Kuhtai were pretty handy for that. Although I did cycle past a couple of weeks ago and they were harvesting trees there, so that might have an impact. 

This site looks useful: https://www.climbers-paradise.com/eisklettern-oetztal/

There´s apparently tons to do. If you click on a climb name on the black list on the right and then "Topographie", you get a photo with the route marked in red (SL = pitch). On the "Interaktive Karte" (interactive map) top right on the starting page you can scroll in using the mouse wheel. For details of the description + approach etc. you´ll have to run it through translate, but it looks like a good overview for a start.

As you say, the conditions at that time of year can be anything from perfect to full thaw, you´ll have to take pot luck. Probably best to ask at the guides´ ofice in Sölden when you get there what your best bet could be.

Thanks for the replies.  That link looks great!

Are there any printed books that cover the area?

This one looks good, comprehensive + with good topos:

https://www.freytagberndt.com/de/eiskletterfuhrer-tirol.html?region_id=DE00...

Längenfeld is 15 min by car or 30 by bus down the main road from Sölden and seems to be the centre of Ötztal ice climbing; there´s an equipment store there too (Alpin Treff) and they´re sure to have loads of info on conditions

https://www.alpin-treff.at/content/1-unser-shop

I think the sport guide covers it, it's a wire bound guidebook. I have a copy at home so can check the title later.

Thanks for the book advice--I think I'll buy the guide linked above.

I will probably also look into hiring a guide for a day. 

More ideas are always appreciated!

Bruno

There’s an excellent map/ guidebook shop in Innsbruck. Can’t recall address but it’s same street as the mammut store. Would be surprised if they didn’t have guidebook(s) for where you’re looking. Maybe worth phoning them?