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Stob Coire Sputan Dearg from Bob Scotts Bothy

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 DizzyVizion 01 Dec 2023

Planning a night at Bob Scotts mid December and hopefully a winter climb - something around grade 3. We're thinking Stob Coire Sputan Dearg is our best and possibly only option from Bob Scotts?

Anyone know roughly the walk-in time, and/or if there are any alternatives for winter climbs doable from that bothy?

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 

 iani 01 Dec 2023
In reply to DizzyVizion:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_macdui_-_stob_coire_sputan_dea...

In all honesty - if you are asking about the walk in time, I'm a bit worried about what else you can't assess ..       

Can I suggest you consider a winter mountaineering course first ..

16
OP DizzyVizion 01 Dec 2023
In reply to iani:

> In all honesty - if you are asking about the walk in time, I'm a bit worried about what else you can't assess ..       

> Can I suggest you consider a winter mountaineering course first ..

Walked in from Linn of Dee to summit Ben Macdui a few years back so not completely unfamiliar with the area. 

Just asking for the purpose of daylight management and if there are maybe other places slightly further away but within reach that would give us more options for the day.

Thanks

Post edited at 12:15
 Doug 01 Dec 2023
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Another option might be Carn Etchachan (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_macdui_-_carn_etchachan-14648/ ) although you would be better staying at the Hutchinson hut

Walk in for both very dependent on conditions, in deep snow could easily be a few hours

OP DizzyVizion 01 Dec 2023
In reply to Doug:

> Another option might be Carn Etchachan (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_macdui_-_carn_etchachan-14648/ ) although you would be better staying at the Hutchinson hut

> Walk in for both very dependent on conditions, in deep snow could easily be a few hours

Thanks Doug. Carn Etchachan is a good shout.

Went up a gully there a few years back. Walked in from the ski centre that time, up aladdins coulior then down diagonal gully.

We're commited to Bob Scotts unfortunatley - going as a group but others will have different objectives for the day.

I'm assuming Hells Lum would add another hour or so onto a walk-in from Bob Scotts in decent walking conditions. 

Post edited at 12:37
 Drexciyan 01 Dec 2023
In reply to DizzyVizion:

In average conditions I'd allow for 3hrs. It's very rough going by the Luibeg burn and a pretty soul destroying approach imo. Following the path up Sron Riach and traversing cross to Lochan Uaine is better and quicker in summer, could be sketchy in winter though as quite a steep slope. Going over Derry Cairngorm would prob be my preferred option but still about 3 hrs in average conditions probably. Would take you the whole day just to get to Hells Lum and back never mind doing a route! Unless there was a perfect neve pavement all the way but that rarely happens in December.

 ScraggyGoat 01 Dec 2023
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Sputan an Dearg faces predominantly south. This can be both good or bad for early season.

If lots of snow and consistently below freezing in shade, the little bit of sun melt can aid consolidation or even brew ice, and cold southly winds may scour loose snow (and rime-up the cliffs) leading to good conditions.  N. Corries can be swimming in these conditions. Too much sun and/or too high temps it will strip and/or go soft, or be threatened by ice fall from the cliffs above. In these conditions Etchchan or Northern corries would be better. you will have to judge in advance, and it can be a fine line.

In terms of walk-in if snowy consider wind direction and deposition. Walking up the Luibeg could be a powder, or crust on top of heather flog. It may be better to go up Carn Crom ridge and downward contour into the Corrie below Little Derry Cairngorm, taking advantage of this ridge often being blown free of snow. The downside is on first acquaintance finding the optimal line and depending on the fill of the snow, parts  traverse is bouldery.  


Leave Bobs at least two hours before sunrise if going for a gully, if going for something mixed go two hours earlier. It’s a relatively long way, there won’t be any northern corries trench and conditions under foot can significantly vary the time, and day light is short and precious in mid December.

Post edited at 14:26
OP DizzyVizion 01 Dec 2023
In reply to Drexciyan:

> In average conditions I'd allow for 3hrs. It's very rough going by the Luibeg burn and a pretty soul destroying approach imo. Following the path up Sron Riach and traversing cross to Lochan Uaine is better and quicker in summer, could be sketchy in winter though as quite a steep slope. Going over Derry Cairngorm would prob be my preferred option but still about 3 hrs in average conditions probably. Would take you the whole day just to get to Hells Lum and back never mind doing a route! Unless there was a perfect neve pavement all the way but that rarely happens in December.

I remember the walk along the Luibeg burn on the approach to Sron Riach being a bit tedious. You've addressed my concern here very well; that the ground taking a direct route towards Lochaine Uaine this way would be a bit crap and slow, so really a big thank you for picking up on that. 

Derry Cairngorm seems to be the way to go here. And we'll leave Hells Lum for a day when we're up at the north end.

Thanks again

Post edited at 19:54
OP DizzyVizion 01 Dec 2023

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