UKC

After many years of talking about it, I'm planning on going to the Picos de Europa in September to climb a few routes on the Naranjo de Bulnes, and maybe some others in the area.

While the refuge at the foot of the peak is ideally situated, I've read online that it's a bit of a miserable place (some people say its dirty to the point of being unsanitary, rumours of bed bugs, rude staff etc), and many people recommend wild camping nearby and using the refuge for bathroom facilities and possibly for food/beer.

Does anybody have opinions and/or up to date info on this? Is the refuge really as bad as rumoured?

The staff weren't rude, but weren't making an effort to be pleasant when we were up there this summer (camped outside, but had dinner in the hut). Dont expect to be able to use the toilet facilities of the hut if youre camping (my girlfriend asked where the toilet was and was told that we were just in the hut for dinner, nothing else!). The food was fine, and beer was available for 3eur a can from the hut snack bar, cash only. You also need to book online for dinner, in advance. One couple showed up hoping to just pay at the time, and were told that they would have to go back down to the valley to get service to book online!

The camping is very pleasant, with loads of flat space. No one takes notice of the "no tents up before sunset" rule, and the hut guardians dont seem to care either. One of the nicer spots however is unfortunately right beside the toilet boulder.

I stayed in 2022 and thought the place pretty standard for an alpine hut in terms of cleanliness and the staff seemed fine. There were also tonnes of people camping outside and no one seemed bothered.

Thanks both!

Ridiculous. Because restaurants don't have toilets, of course...?!

Given this and what you said about the toilet situation, do you recommend camping a bit further away to avoid nasty surprises? (the Spanish, in my sadly extensive experience, are not great at being discrete when it comes to shitting outdoors!)  

Given the choice, I'd probably opt next time to camp and use the hut for dinner (and a shit if I'm allowed in the bogs). Food was decent. Beds were moderately horrendous and sleep barely occurred. But then that's a lot of huts for you.

Nah I'd still camp in the meadow by the hut, although the prime spot looked to be on knoll just to the north where the radio mast is, you'd probably need to be up by the hut pretty early in the day to get that one! Theres also a tap outside the hut which is pretty handy as there are no other water sources nearby.

I'm following the thread with interest. Thinking of going up for one or two routes in high season (August).

I stayed in the hut twelve years ago, so could not possible comment on the state now. Other than I would not like to walk up to the hut with a tent, a stove, food, sleeping bag an pad in addition to a full rack.

If you stay in a tent you have to take it down during the day I guess? If it rains, how do you keep the things dry?

We had three nights under Picu Urriellu last summer - two in the hut and one bivvying, eating all our meals in the hut. The hut is entirely acceptable, clean and the staff are as friendly as hosts anywhere (maybe damming with faint praise). The food at dinner was excellent and plentiful, breakfast only so-so. However, the camping option is also stunning (see pics). 

On a future visit I'd go for bivvy tent plus food in the hut (which gives you toilet access plus a good, sociable nosh and a lighter bag!) Best of all worlds. Trip report here for Murciana 78 and Amistad Diablo plus some parking and approach beta. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/08/19/naranjo-de-bulnes-or-picu-urrie...

Oh, and the climbing is absolutely stupendous! Enjoy, cheers Dom. 

Thanks for the info and great report!

when I was at the hut 2 years ago, we bivied one night as the hut was fully booked, then , after the climb, slept one night in the hut. I def recommend a bivy,  but a tent might be a good idea as the weather is not always good.... copious an good dinner at the hut, but breakfast not so. 

maybe not a world-class hut but world-class limestone 10 min from the hut

For no other reason than that of reminiscing.... we camped when we did the Rabada/ Navarro and then stayed in the hut the night before we did the Murciana. The hut felt like relative luxury compared to camping I remember. The Guardian was very stern and would trek down to the valley every few days to bring back supplies which he would sell at inflated prices ( no one begrudged his profit because of the effort he put into getting the stuff!) But this was 40 years ago!

Upon rereading the above it comes across as the scrawlings of some old decrepit climber who is desperately trying to relive past glories.....all true sadly.

We went last summer and bivvied in one of the plentiful ringed cairns a few hundred meters away. Partner used the toilet despite us not staying there as we’d heard this was allowed due to the sheer numbers of people in the area, no one seemed to be bothered. I took a brief look inside and it was dark and dingey. Useful to be able to pick up beers (alcohol free available too) but I wouldn’t choose to stay there given the weight of a pad and bivvy bag. 

My main memory of the trip was unfortunately the smell of human faeces, rather than the quality climbing, of which we did plenty. We walked up in the evening “Orbayu” and we could smell the hut well before we could see it. 

Thanks for the update, from a fellow collector of PdL ticks

Always nice to repay good beta - your description of the descent off the Petit Aiguille d'Ansabère saved us from a potential epic

Keep up the ticking! Cheers, Dom