UKC

The legendary EB are making rock shoes again (maybe have been for a while) and I wondered if anyone has experience with them?  They are cheaper than Scarpa, Sportiva etc and that makes them tempting for indoors use if nothing else.

https://eb-climbing.com/climbing-shoes

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I had a pair of Strange’s.

I wore them for a little bit on trad up to E1, but the fit wasn’t quite right for me.

Decent enough for the price if they fit.

I climbed with someone a couple of years ago who warmed up for his project everyday by climbing an 8c in his EBs, didn’t seem to hold him back!

In reply to Frank the Husky:

It says in the linked ad that Paul Jenft won the 2017 European Youth Bouldering Championship using one of the models, so they do seem to have been around a while (and can’t be that bad either!)

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I've a pair of Mojos for potter-abouts, which seem comfy enough. The rubber is noticably less grippy on resin holds than the Vibram compounds on my other shoes, but if the holds aren't tiny it's mostly not a problem - outside there seems to be less difference

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I have a pair of the Django 2.0. Great fit and a very supportive shoe. Superb value.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

EBs were good enough for Seb Bouin until Black Diamond offered him more money to wear theirs

E

In reply to Enty:

Interestingly that's the climber I mentioned higher up the post.

Few years ago so still EB sponsored, changed into something different for his 9b project every day.

I've seen this a few times now with climbers changing in to different shoes for the photos!

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I bought a pair of Electron as they were too cheap to turn down. I envisaged just using them as indoor warm up/mileage shoes but tbh once broken in I don't feel like they're holding me back at all, at my level (up to 7a-ish). A good buy, in my case

In reply to ripper:

I bought some EBs after a lucky find in a bargain bucket in Decathlon - no idea which model, for silly money. They were very comfy so I thought they would be fine for warmups and longer routes. Turns out I've been very impressed and they give great performance even without being a very tight fit.

Given a suitable deal on a another pair, I'd not hestitate.

In reply to jezb1:

You climbed with Seb Bouin?!? What a great climber... and seems a nice chap.

In reply to C Witter:

He turned up at Santa Linya on his own each day blagging belays off anyone there. Very nice guy.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

EB's. Is that name related to Ellis Brigham? After all he began as a cobbler. Very different to the original shoe, as you would expect.

In reply to Sean Kelly:

I think not. The original EB (of which I had several pairs back in the 70's) was widely, but wrongly, thought to refer to Ellis Brigham. I'm pretty sure they were designed and made in France by someone with the initials "EB". Emile Bordeneau possibly? They were the go-to rock shoe for a decade or more until the company changed the design, stickier rubber came along with the Boreal Firé, and the EB fell out of favour.

Martin

In reply to Martin Hore: Almost correct Edmond Bourdonneau bought Pierre Alains  (PA`s) business

History of EBs

https://eb-climbing.com/historical-eb