UKC

COMPETITION: WINNERS - Win a Men's or Women's Origin VS and Set of Friction Labs Chalk

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 UKC Articles 13 Mar 2024

The Scarpa Origin VS allows you to climb in the gym in comfort. It has a large, soft rubber toe patch, giving excellent grip for hooking in every direction. To add to the grip Friction Labs are giving away 3 x medium boxes of their premium chalk.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

The article says about the shoe "This is then tricked out with an S72 rubber outsole (arguably the sickest sole compound on the market)".

What does "the sickest sole compound" actually mean? Are these their words or those of UKC?

In reply to Frank the Husky:

> What does "the sickest sole compound" actually mean? Are these their words or those of UKC?

Those are Scarpa's words, but having used it I can't really argue - it is seriously sticky stuff. There are a couple of caveats that come with it though, because it isn't as simple as 'sticker is better'.

On the upside, sticky rubber is obviously great, insofar as it provides more grip; however, on the flipside stickier also (as a broad generalisation) means softer and on certain holds - namely small edges or pebbles - it doesn't fare as well as a firmer rubber, as it tends to creep off/deform due to its softness. 

The 'shore test' is the one that's most regularly used to test a rubbers hardness, although not every brand releases their figures, but from a quick search I found the following for Vibram, which help's put how sticky Scarpa's S72 (i.e. 72 on the shore test) actually is:

  • Vibram XS Grip 2 - 78
  • Vibram XS Grip - 83
  • Vibram XS Edge - 84

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