UKC

Looking for recommendations for *very* friendly, easy-angled slab for TR only, in N Wales. Returning (hopefully....! Please cross all available extremities) to very gentle climbing after a serious injury. 

I'm not looking for anything snazzy at all - in fact the more boring, short, beginner crag all the better - nicely angled Mods, Diffs. Points if access doesn't involve scrambling over appalling scree or boulders given injury.

I had been eyeing up Lion Rock but the forecast around Llanberis looks rubbish; is it easy to rig at Barmouth Slabs or do folks have any other recommendations in other locations please? 

Cheers.

Little Tryfan (near approach to Tryfan from Gwern Y Gof whatever-it’s-called) is the most obvious. Very gentle slabs of good rock. Easy access. Or, more obscure, Craig Aderyn (Teryn Bluffs) approached from Pen y Pass. (Biggest problem being getting a parking place in the PyP car park. Or, bus from Nant Peris)

Depending on how easy/ small you want the crag to be, there’s a slab next to the waterfall at tanygrisiau by the incline where you walk up to cwmorthin. As far as I remember it’s a very easy walk up to the top (it’s only 30ft high) and has bolt anchors already drilled in as groups use for abseil practise etc. Probably 3 independent lines up it, all very easy and with nice a view! 

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Gwern Gof Uchaf (SH 6725 6039)

Craig Y Tonnau ?

If you've got a bit of static rope it's dead easy to rig at Barmouth slabs, there's stakes and natural gear all over the place and lots to do. If you need to borrow some rigging rope send me an email.

I've got a static but that's kind, thank you.

The Conwy Mountain Slab would be perfect for you. The routes are about 8 metres, Diffs and Mods with stakes at the top for rigging. The bonus is that the weather is more often than not much better than in the mountains and the views are extremely pleasant.

The only downside is that it can be popular with outdoor centres but I'm sure that a bit of polite negotiation would negate any potential problems.

If you want really easy, there's also Craig yr Undeb (Union Rock) near Lion Rock, which is popular for kids' groups and the like.

Little Tryfan isn't really a good option for top roping, the routes are too long.

Craig y Tonnau also isn't a good suggestion for your criteria, as the routes are steep for those grades.

Thanks, yeah Tryfan Fach definitely isn't what I want. I doubt Union Rock will be any drier than Lion sadly but looks like it may well just be filthy everywhere tbh so may have to replan anyway now.

Cheers.

How about pont y gromlech?

If it's wet the other end of Llyn Padarn, unfortunately zero chance of the Pass being dry.

The Pinnacles, Capel Curig. If climbing is still allowed there?

Only with prior approval from the land owner for educational use, and with payment.

Conwy Slabs, Union or Lion rock, Willies crag would be my choices for crags for this brief.