UKC

Hi all.

I'm looking for a climbing coach in the Gloucester area. I don't need a coach to necessarily teach me how to climb, but more to enable me to use my body to get the most out of climbing, mainly bouldering. I'm 52, suffer from knee and hip inflexibility, but still love climbing and so need a coach to help me push my grades to a sensible level.

Any suggestions?

https://gmb.io/

Yoga? 

Going to be pedantic here and say that it sounds like you are misusing the term biomechanics? Sounds like you want a coach to primarily look at your technique and general movement?

Many thanks for the reply, but many yoga instructors are not climbing compatible. Was looking for recommendations, rather than just a blank statement.

Thanks for the reply, no not misusing the term biomechanics as that is the study of how the body moves, whilst yes there may be some relation to technique, but my technique suffers more from my body, than lack of knowledge.

Thanks, I'll look into this further, may not be applicable, but you never know. Many thanks for the recommendation.

What do you mean by "yoga instructors are not climbing compatible"?

The majority of climbing coaches will point you in the direction of someone/something to help you improve your flexibility, as very few of them are specialist in this area. This could be a YouTube channel, textbook, yoga instructor or some other specialist from perhaps a local physio business.

Improving that flexibility will improve your climbing. 

Sorry, it's not. It's the study of mechanics when applied to the human body, or some other sort of biological system.

Like I said I was looking for recommendations, not just a blanket statement. Whilst yoga may improve flexibility, it does help if the instructor has some knowledge of climbing.

No worries.

Slightly younger than you at 48, but I've made significant progress opening my hips in the last couple of years through hanging out in squat positions and playing, where yoga hadn't been as effective previously.

My guess would be that playing at different angles instead of always loading in strict alignment gives the brain a better signal that it's safe to release.