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Skye Recommendations: easy single pitch crags for beginners

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 Jackt 21 Apr 2024

Can anyone recommend a good crag for beginners on the Isle of Skye, ideally with access to the top on foot to rig a top rope and with a short(ish) walk in?

Also looking for recommendations for an easy multi-pitch route / grade 3 scramble to take beginners on for their first proper 'mountain experience'.

Thanks!

 Andy Moles 22 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

The second thing you've got plenty of options in the Cuillin, albeit generally with quite long approaches and a fair bit of commitment. The Cioch via Collie's Route would be a classic choice but is quite complicated to manage, especially the descent. Slightly less complicated is to climb the slab corner at polished Diff, and abseil back down the same way. Window Buttress at VD is quite a short approach by Skye standards, and gives the option of continuing to the In Pin. For bigger days on the summits, traversing Sgurr nan Gillean (up the west ridge, down the 'tourist' route) would be one of the better choices in the hard scrambling/easy climbing bracket. Depends on your beginners, and how confident you are to lead that kind of mountaineering terrain (more complicated than a straight-up pitched climb/scramble).

The first thing is tricky on Skye. Most of the friendlier climbs away from the mountains have some complications. Destitution Point at Neist is pretty good but getting to the bottom is an abseil or a tricky scramble, or if you don't want to walk 25 minutes the 'South of the Steps' area is almost roadside and you can walk to the bottom. I believe a local outdoor centre uses a little roadside buttress on the way down to Staffin slipway, but I never have. There are other little bits and bobs you can kind of make work, but they are a bit limited to recommend.

 gooberman-hill 22 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

For an evening's gentle climbing and ropework, what about Camastianavaig? It is a long time (30 years) since I climbed there, so I can't remember the belay options at the top, but I do recall top-roping some hard wall problems, so the belays must have been there!

 For a longer scrambling day, Andy Mole's post is right on the nail.

Post edited at 08:48
 Mark Bull 22 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

Creag Mhor would suit climbing-wise, though it is a bit of a drive from most of Skye, and the walk-in is easy (downhill!) but not that short (45 mins?). 

For roadside convenience, it might be worth heading back over the bridge to  The White Dyke just outside Kyle. 

 Andy Moles 22 Apr 2024
In reply to gooberman-hill:

> For an evening's gentle climbing and ropework, what about Camastianavaig? It is a long time (30 years) since I climbed there, so I can't remember the belay options at the top, but I do recall top-roping some hard wall problems, so the belays must have been there!

I wouldn't massively recommend Camastianavaig - like you say it's possible, but it's pretty scrappy and limited.

 IanMcC 22 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

This place is quite nice. You pass some limestone craglets below the track on the walk in.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/suisnish-17694/

In reply to Jackt:

Kyle of Lochalsh. Obviously not on Skye but not too far. 10 min walk in with easy top and bottom access. Catches the afternoon and evening sun.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_white_dyke-2369/#overview

 arose 22 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

Andy’s suggestions are great. I’d also suggest the N ridge of sgurr nan each as a good short day. The approach goes up next to some amazing swimming holes too. It might also be worth checking out the “new” sport crag at dun Mor. It used to just have two poorly bolted 6’s but I notice that it’s been rebolted and some other lines added.  Dun Mor Struan

 Dr Toph 23 Apr 2024
In reply to Andy Moles:

Agree that South of the Steps at Neist has some friendly lower grades, non-intimidating location above grassy slopes, and should be quite simple to rig a top rope once you have identified the lines. The stuff above the steps is often wet and generally uninspiring. 

Dun mor Struan is a very pleasant spot for afternoon sun and views. Solid rock and short routes from f4 to f7a so should be something for everyone. Many lower offs are accessible from above.

 Andy Clarke 24 Apr 2024
In reply to Jackt:

I agree with the recommendations for the South of the Steps area for friendly single pitch with a short walk-in where it will be easy to rig top ropes. This was always my go-to on an annual trip to Skye with the Austrian Alpine Club when we had relative newbies who wanted to try their hand at leading/climbing. An additional advantage is that it has lovely views out to sea past the lighthouse. A couple of things to be aware of: it's a popular sightseeing destination, so it's worth arriving fairly early if you want to be sure of parking reasonably close; it's a fair old drive from Glenbrittle, if that's where you're staying.

The specific crag I always went to was Sonamara.

Post edited at 10:28

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