UKC

I notice from the Climb Bristol Facebook page, that a practice lower off has been installed in the New Quarry.

From the photo, it looks like it's been put right in the crux sequence of the new quarry traverse (tucked "out of the way" in the undercut section just right of cymbeline)

My question is this. When the gorge is full of bits of rock with no routes or problems on them, why has this been installed here? Please could I ask for it to be removed and put somewhere less likely to cause issues with cross town traffic?

Don't get me wrong, I know that the new quarry is a truly wonky place, but the traverse is "an established rite of passage" and "a classic of varied geometry". Plenty of us locals are very regularly on the traverse (and have been for decades) and I would rather that avoidable conflict between traversers and learners didn't occurr.

I understand the value of it and I've no issue with that, but there are loads of places (including elsewhere in the same quarry) where it would be less awkward

Would be good to hear from those that placed it. I appreciate that it's been done with best intentions in mind.

Thanks

Tom

I placed it. It does not interfere with any holds or the climbing of the traverse.

You mean that traverse which has ruined the starts of the other 70 odd routes in the NQ? My heart bleeds. There's a nice long bridge in Sea Mills which has multiple traverses on it and no routes to ruin. 

I'm sure if you contact Climb Bristol though they'll sort it. They're very active on Social Media so I don't think it needed a UKC post. 

Hi, I understand where you're coming from about it not interfering with the holds or climbing, but I disagree. Having a group of people stood at that point with clips/ropes in the overhanging rock when you're trying to get past the most sustained part of the traverse will have an impact (both on the traverse and the learners).  It would be good if this could be moved.

In response to Paul, that traverse was buffed to a fine sheen long before the newer bolts went into the quarry and the routes got popular. There's a set of polished traverse holds buried below your feet too (palaeolithic era I think). Complaining that boulderers are polishing up Avon routes for sport climbers is "like handing out speeding tickets at the Indy 500". 

The reason I posted here and not on FB is that I'm used to using this forum, less so with posting on social media.

Getting back on the subject, the practice lower off has been put into a popular established traverse problem (as evidenced by the copious polish Paul mentions), and I think this was an oversight when it was installed.  I think it should be removed.

In additon to my post above, I should say I'm willing to pay for new lower off bolts and glue as well as helping in any way I can with with re-siting this.

I don't want the bolt fund to take a hit, nor do I want anyone who's putting work into Gorge climbing to think I don't appreciate it.

As the bolts don't interfere with any holds. To play devil's advocate, who gives priority to who. If you were to be climbing a route and man was sitting in a chair halfway up the route because his hobby is sitting in chairs partway up cliffs would he be obligated to move just because "climbing ethics" said the onsight leader has right of way. 

I'm sure anyone bored enough to do that traverse wouldn't mind waiting a minute for whoever was being taught essential safety skills and in reverse I'd hope whoever was using the lower off would give the traverser the courtesy of being able to pass and enjoy their monotony. 

I'm sure people will be able to organise themselves and talk to eachother like humans so everyone can enjoy the rock.

Hi. I agree with your point, and yes belayers and boulderers organises themselves to wait.

My point is that this has been put in the place on the traverse where it's most difficult to wait (if going left to right)

On chairs and cliffs and suchlike. If I were both a climber and cliff sitter, I'd make sure I sited my lofty throne away from established routes so as not to cause any issues.

This situation seems pretty inconsiderate. The traverse was there first and clearly can't be anywhere else. On the other hand, the learners' lower-off could easily have been placed somewhere less intrusive. It's a no-brainer to me. 

Only if he was 'murcan