UKC

Lighter and more nimble than boots, more capable on steep rocky ground than a trail shoe, approach shoes are the all-terrain 4x4 of footwear. For UK mountain crags and scrambling, a supportive and robust model is preferable: Here we compare five of the best options on the market.

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In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I'm sure this has been covered before (in terms of rock shoe prices), but is it just me looking at these and wondering how they cost best part of £200?

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Putting “not the cheapest” as a con on the second cheapest pair in the roundup seems a little harsh…

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Garmont Dragontails are also worth looking at. Very sturdy and comfortable and usually under 150.

In reply to Iamgregp:

It's genuinely the only thing I could criticise (and it's literally true - they're not the cheapest)

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Also the AKU Rock is a good choice for wide feet, similar width for length as the Sportiva TX4.

Prices becoming crazy, usually pay the same figure in € NOT £ in France, Spain.

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Yeah I wondered if that was the reason!  I have a pair and they’re hard to fault…

In reply to critter:

I'd also recommend these, climbed Cyfrwy Arete in them over the weekend, very hard to fault.

In reply to Iamgregp:

Turns out we were given the wrong price for one of the other shoes on test, so the TX4 are now the cheapest of the lot by a cool £5 and we now have literally nothing to list as a Con. 

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Hahaha! That’s actually quite funny isn’t it?

Falr play to La Sportiva, they’re a pretty damn  good shoe….

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I'm on my third pair of TX4's after years and years and many miles of hill walking and climbing and won't wear anything else.

That said my wife wears Mescalito's (also on her third pair since ditching boots over a decade ago) so we agree to disagree about which is best.

I'm going to look in to resoling as didn't know it was possible but given they are twice the price as they used to be it may be a useful option.

Dan, I love your reviews and reports, the only thing that could make them better is if your caption photos detailed the hill / scramble / location. I know you mention Suilven, is that the first picture?

In reply to RedFive:

Thanks! I often forget to tag photo locations in reviews, so a reminder is always handy. In this case my pics are a mix of Suilven and Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Re TX4 vs Mescalito, there's a similar split among some of the gear review team here. Boils down to which fits best I suspect

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

When walking away from the crag, never make the mistake of wearing approach shoes. They will get ruined. You must instead spend an extra £200+ on the highest quality departure shoes. 

In reply to AllanMac:

I bought a pair of TX4s this summer after reading multiple positive reviews, and I'm very pleased with them; super comfy, super sturdy, and if what others say is right, super durable.

The only thing I don't like about them is that they are a little 'clumpy' and I certainly wouldn't like to go running in them.

I have used Salomon X Ultras for years as an all-round approach/running shoe, but the last two pairs I've had have fallen apart within a few months of owning them. So I'm reluctant to buy another pair.

Does anybody have a good recommendation for a hybrid shoe which is stiffer than a pure trail running shoe, but still possible to go on the occasional run with, and not as clumpy as the TX4s? 

In reply to AllanMac:

A few years ago I posted a request for the best retreat shoes 

Best answer I got was "Scarpers"

In reply to Alun:

They are a trail running shoe but Sportiva Mutants are amazing for this, stickier than most approach shoes and much better grip. Obviously not as good on an edge for actual climbing/ scrambling but smear really well and vastly better for walking. Ideal for getting to climbs and what I'd wear for a day with fair amount of walking and scrambling/ easy climbing eg. East Buttress on Beinn Eighe or similar. Also lighter than TX4's etc. on the back of your harness/ in a pack when needed.

In reply to Alun:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/approach_shoes/scarpa_rapid_-_appr...

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

After wearing out a number of pairs of Sportiva TX4s all too quickly, I’ve found the Sportiva TX5 Low to be superior in every respect, better sole especially on wet grass, more water resistant, greater comfort and support and much more durable

In reply to kevin stephens:

I love my TX4s but the sole very quickly become sketchy on grass and mud!

As a reference the Mescalito is better in that regard, imo.

I find the tx4 better for rock, the mescalito better on muck.

In reply to Jim Hamilton:

The OutdoorGearLab review of that shoe isn't all that positive about its climbing abilities and suggests that Arc'Teryx have a better option for mixing running with scrambling: 

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/approach-shoes/arcteryx-ver...

In reply to Luke90:

Yes another option among many, although the review says they're relatively heavy and bulky so they wouldn't want to carry them up a multi pitch.  

In reply to jezb1:

TX Guide are amazing on wet grass, although the absolute king is the Aequilibrium... 

In reply to timparkin:

Yeah I have a pair of Guides too.

I do like them but weirdly I’ve had a few unexpected foot slips on rock in them which I can’t quite explain.

In reply to jezb1:

The rubber is good for wet rock, Vibram Idrogrip on forefoot and Megagrip on heels, but not as good for dry rock as things like the Mescalito or TX4 which use megagrip all over. 

I prefer having a bit of extra wet performance (I do live in Scotland) but might get a pair of Mescalito for more summer stuff as Idrogrip does wear fast.

https://www.vibram.com/uk/technology/outdoor/TECH_idrogrip.html

In reply to Phil79:

I am told that the greatest margins in climbing gear is in the footwear. Perhaps this has spread to approach shoes. While the shoes are undoubtedly very good the price seems excessive. I wished I worked for UKC/UKH and enjoyed the freebies

In reply to Anvil.Chorus:

That’s probably because shops have to tie up a lot of cash carrying a much greater stock compared to other gear to cover all of the sizes?

In reply to Anvil.Chorus:

The key word there is 'work'. No free lunches.

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I second the comments above about Tx4s wearing quickly and becoming lethal on grass/mud. I've only used the older sole pattern, to be fair, and I tend to walk on my forefoot. But, I found that the soft rubber dots would wear very quickly leaving no grip on the forefoot after just 1 year. This led to two nasty slips on grass/mud with a heavy sack on... which has meant ditching them. I'm usually very steady on my feet, but it's impossible to grip wet muddy gound with a smooth piece of rubber. The other negative about TX4s is they get wet easily but dry extremely slowly. I've gone from a devotee to feeling a bit negative about them, after 3 pairs.

In reply to C Rettiw:

What did you get instead and have you found a solution to the grip on grass issue?

In reply to Anvil.Chorus:

Margin for whom? I don't think, in % terms, footwear is any different to most other gear shops buy from suppliers/manufacturers.

In reply to TobyA: As in my earlier post, TX5 Lows solve all of the TX4’s problems

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I'm intrigued that people find the TX4s don't last well. I've got a pair that are nearly 6 years old. They've done multiple long distance trails in Europe, loads of Scottish walking and scrambling including the Cuillin ridge and have only needed resoling once about a year ago. They get used for dog walking almost every day and they look like they'll do a few more years yet.

In reply to kevin stephens:

I'm a big fan of the TX5 as well, great all round walking shoe with decent scrambling/climbing abilities and as you say very robust.  However worth noting that they feel a fair bit more substantial than the TX4s (much more walking shoe/boot feel) which is an advantage in some ways but for people who prefer a more lightweight feeling approach shoe they might not work.

In reply to Wil Treasure:

Well... people walk in different ways. As well as weight and terrain being wear factors, a heel striker versus a forefoot striker will cause very different wear patterns.The original TX4 had a decent heel with deep lugs, and a more "climbing-oriented" forefoot, so hypothetically it's less well suited to people like me who are forefoot strikers as the front wears so rapidly. I've also had a pair split at the rand where the forefoot bends.

I notice the sole has been changed: perhaps the new model will fare better?

In reply to Wil Treasure:

Design great product - build loyal following with great word-of-mouth - sell loads on moderate margins - reduce quality of materials - hike prices - sell loads on high margins - eventually folk realise the value is not what it was and sales drop - discontinue product. Rinse and repeat. 

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

"approach shoes are the all-terrain 4x4 of footwear."

Don't you mean the SUV of footwear? Good for cos-playing outdoors, not good for most typical UK uses. 

In reply to flaneur:

I'm not sure there is any evidence the TX4 has declined in build quality. Also, approach shoes are probably the best footwear for UK mountaineering outside of winter and very wet walking. Go look at the feet of most UK guides. They're not wearing Mantas or wellies.

In reply to kevin stephens:

Goes to show the importance of individual fit/preference. I've got the TX5 lows, and whilst they are good for wandering round the park when it's muddy, I find them just too clog-like and heavy for anything in the mountains. I also weirdly find them like roller skates on wet rock. I find myself reaching for my la sportiva mutants instead on most mountain approaches.

Maybe this is la sportiva's strategy, just make a load of different models that are all almost perfect, but each with a different flaw, so you inevitably spend loads getting the whole range.

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Pity La Sportiva don't make the TX4 or TX5 in a size bigger than 47.5, or if they do then don'r have any outlets for these larger sizes in the UK. I know this would be a small section of the market, but it's annoying when you're in it.

In reply to Guy Hurst:

TX4s are available in sizes up to 49.5, but finding a retailer with these sizes in stock may be a challenge. 

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Re TX4 vs Mescalito, there's a similar split among some of the gear review team here. Boils down to which fits best I suspect

Agreed!  TX4 are quite a bit narrower than the Scarpa's at the ball of the foot area for example.  I can't wear TX4 or the boots for more than a few minutes, whereas my Mescalito boots are fine all day

In reply to UMNS:

Funny, I find TX4s so good on me because they're wide and round enough at the toe for my clumpy broad feet. I've not found a Scarpa approach shoe I get on with half so well (or any other brand/model come to that). Just shows how particular fit can be

In reply to C Rettiw:

When you're walking? 

In reply to C Rettiw: I am intrigued by your idea of people being forefoot strikers while walking.  While it's certainly a thing running it's blinking difficult to imagine walking.

To Luke90: To counter, outdoorgearlab gave the Arcteryx Norvan a good review but in the real world they were pretty poor, and very expensive for the very basic, short lived shoe that they were.

In reply to nufkin:

Yep.

In reply to wbo2:

I know it sounds weird, but then people have told me I walk a little odd all my life. And every pair of shoes bears this out in the wear pattern: always under the forefoot, rather than the heel. I sometimes try to consciously put my heel down first, but... only works while you're concentrating!

In reply to Harry Jarvis:

They are only listed to size 47.5 on the Sportiva website. Where did you see them shown in larger sizes?

In reply to Guy Hurst:

I’m in this group too. Have you had any joy finding approach shoes in larger sizes?

In reply to Matt Buchanan:

Apologies. It seems it is only the TX4 Evo which is available in sizes up to 49.5. The Evo GTX also goes up to 49.5.

https://www.lasportiva.com/en/shoes-approach-tx4-evo-man-zfas040

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Unless being used as pub shoes (at which many approach shoes are in their element.. i.e. indoors) I can't believe you'd review the non gtx version of approach shoes. As soon as I saw you'd reviewed the non gtx version of the first shoe (la sportiva tx4) which in the GTX version is a good shoe, I realised the review wasn't about outdoors in the UK and abandoned the reviews there and then.

You guys generally do such excellent reviews and I've never grumbled before, but why did you bother here, you even listed the cons of it (supposedly for UK outdoors use??) as "Very few". I genuinely don't understand, did you really wear them beyond the pub?

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Just because you have a personal preference for sweaty boil-in-the-bag feet doesn't mean everybody does

In reply to AlanLittle:

FIFY

In reply to kevin stephens:

Ah, but the point you're missing is that it IS personal preference whereas [probably actually can climb] Tom was implying that his personal preference ought to be some kind of universal rule for everybody

In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Of course, I'm always right. Who doesn't want boil in the bag feet anyway 😉

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Do the pictures look like they were in the pub?

I climb almost every weekend predominantly in the Peak but other UK areas as well. If it's super wet underfoot I'll wear walking boots, sometimes even with gaiters! If it's not I'll wear trainers or unlined approach shoes. This seems to work perfectly, so what am I doing wrong?

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Really? I use the non-GTX TX4s year-round in the UK. The high rand is great for UK use so long as you're not walking through deep mud/bogs and in these cases I'd wear a GTX boot anyway.

One pair I own is 5 years old and has been resoled. If this was the GTX version the membrane would have failed ages ago. I'd be left with a non-waterproof but sweaty shoe that didn't dry quickly. 

In reply to C Rettiw:

I had the p@ss ripped out of me at school because I always walked on my toes. Then when I got my ADHD diagnosis the consultant told me it was very common in people with ADHD and autism. 
(I’m not suggesting this applies  to you of course.) 

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Each to their own, but I would never choose GTX shoes over unlined ones. Nasty sweaty things. Other opinions are equally valid, not all the review team are as foot-sweat-phobic as me for a start. 

I live in the Highlands, not the Mojave desert, but rarely have I managed to get wet feet in approach shoes. You can usually hop the bogs. If you're on a scrambling day or approaching a mountain crag then surely it's going to be dry weather. And if it isn't then don't wear approach shoes, put on boots to keep out the bogs or faster-drying trail shoes. 

If you got as far as reading the TX4 review then you'd have seen the pictures which weren't taken in a pub. I would do more reviewing in the pub if we had any worth going to (or any at all, really).