UKC

Two new axes are turning heads this season - the Black Diamond Hydra and the DMM Cortex. Both seem destined to become familiar sights on our winter crags, but which is the one for you? We put them head to head to see how they stack up for UK climbers.

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Damn, these were the two I narrowed down to about a month ago. Happy with the Cortexes (cortices?).

There's not much in the price by the time you've bought the spikes and tech picks for the Hydras, Cortexes came with two extra picks from Needlesports as well.

Yes, happy with the Cortex/Cortices (also not sure on the plural haha).

Both Cortex and Hydra are great. I think it'll depend on what you want to primarily use each for and some preferences on the ergonomics. I think you can get away without the spike on the Hydra in Scotland. Although, I think (particularly nowadays) in Scotland you'll almost certainly want those I.C.E. Mixed picks on the Hydra.

Glad to see a little nod to the Entheos in there, an absolutely phenomenal tool. If it wasn't a unicorn requiring a remortgage of the house and readily available in Europe, it would almost certainly become the de-facto Scottish mixed tool. But a company like DMM going down the CNC route makes sense given their history with super solid tools like the hot-forged Rebel and Anarchist. I would love to see a CNC alpine axe for no other reason than I imagine it would just look dead cool. Also, the Cortex needs to be made readily available in the grey version... Red just isn't my thing.

What's interesting is that Forecast Equipment has shown that a small team with a CNC machine, basic autocad skills and some aluminum billets can make a pretty solid mixed climbing contender. I actually foresee the potential for near custom designed (or even 3D scan of other popular tools) CNC axes with a head bolt pattern to fit picks from your brand of choice.

I've never actually tried the Entheos. A shame that it's hard to come by in the UK as I can see a lot of people having use for them here.

I hadn't actually noticed the Cortex comes in grey, but see it's more for tactical applications. That's some piece of kit to be supplied with!

Not a specific question for John, but are there actually ANY genuine conceivable "tactical situations" where such an ice tool could possibly be used where it being camouflaged (and in grey too?!) would be important? I understand that adventure training has is purpose in the military, but a red tool as used by the civvies would be fine for that. Has anyone, anywhere ever used a technical ice tool in a environment where combat has or could take place? 

Climbing out of conditions routes and not getting noticed?

Sorry, terrible joke...

You could have just said "Millstone"...

In reply

for sure, the alps, arctic norway - some nice road side ice routes in the area where the RM train.

If you meant has anyone used a technical ice tool in the context of actual combat - no idea I’m afraid. Would agree it seems a niche scenario!

I think some Indian/Pakistani ops on the Siachen Glacier during that particular conflict's hot phase might qualify.

I believe Stalin benefitted from the occasional tactical usage of ice axes 🤔

Wasn't that an ice pick? i.e. one of those spikes with handle for breaking up ice for drinks? Or was it the other way around, and everyone presumes it was an ice pick but actually they got Trotsky with Mexico City's only ice axe...?

Actually a real ice axe, according to The Grauniad:

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/sep/13/trotsky-ice-axe-murder-mexico...

Likely cut down for concealment.

Also, a nice reminder in those trying times to watch again the awesome Death of Stalin comedy again – thanks for bringing that monster up, now I got an excuse what to do with my evening!

Here is me hoping that all the new dictators currently trying to imitate "that other moustache guy" or "the thin moustache one" (not much of a difference here, by my count!) end up the same way as in the movie, choking to death in their own piss...

It was a mountaineering ice axe, and Trotsky was wounded specifically with its adze.

Did the Royal Marines use 'mud axes' for scaling  steep muddy slopes? (probably just on exercise...)(Terrordactyls)

I can testify that the CNC construction is bomb-proof as proven by the originals which were the E-Climb Cryos. Still my go-to tool for Scottish winter and tooling, has been used and abused for 15 years and still going strong. Glad to see DMM has stick to that construction. Yes it is more expensive, but you know you have a tool forever. 

Both tools in the test look good! It will be really interesting to see in 3 years time which one sells the most now that most people are used to Nomic-types. I assume if you do purely Scottish then the Cortex it is. But if you do other winter climbing then the Hydra is clearly the winner. Why would you carry all the extra weight up a route. Also the Cortex's pick design looks really basic compared to modern standards (obvs makes no difference in Scotland).

Thanks for this, interesting. For the “Cons” section at the start of the Hydra review, the article states that the *shaft* is not t-rated… this should be the pick, right?

Hi, no, as far as we can tell both the shaft and pick (supplied I.C.E) are not type II / t-rated. There is no (T) marking on the shaft and no information to confirm shaft as t-rated from Black Diamond.

Edit (and apology): We have updated the review to confirm the Hydra shaft is indeed T-rated.
Sorry, this was called into question post review where we only had reference to instructions for use from BD and I was cross confirming this with my photos of the shaft (which don't clearly show this marking). Apologies for the blatant mistake here.

Interesting...

Weirdly I just happened to watch https://youtu.be/m7Mec5HyRpY?si=6xc8aIf6oC5RPEwk and at 1.02 you can see on their hydras T clearly stamped on the shafts just above the handle?!

I've got a pair in froont of me but I've taped the handles, can't remember if there was a stamp on them or not though.

And backcountry.com and facewest.com show the axe as being T-rated in their descriptions

This frame shows it better on the axes

https://youtu.be/m7Mec5HyRpY?si=A3IcGVRI1vG5iJjp&t=62

What if I told you my cortex’ are developing a head wobble? 🤷‍♂️

Break out the popcorn time!!!  

Great patina Ramon!!  They look like something dug up at an archeological site!!!  

You need to expand on that Ali!

In relation to T-rating, I need to apologise. I have updated the review and explained in an edit of my last comment above. 

It'd be good to get clarification on what you mean, because if there is an issue then I'm pretty sure that DMM would want to know about it and would likely take the matter very seriously.

Having seen the Cortex I can't see how the head would wobble as it's all one piece, so I am assuming that if there is an issue it'd be with tolerance within the picks, but that's a complete guess.

Either way, it'd be good to know more, and I know DMM would be interested to know the answer too having just spoken to them about it.

Thanks Rob. Usual story, wrote the comment and posted it and then couldn’t work out how to delete!  You’re right. The head doesn’t wobble but the pick creaks in the head. DMM have been in touch and I’m sure will sort me out. 
 

other than that I think the cortex are phenomenal- I’ve probably used them on 30+ routes from IV up to VII,8. 

The old DMM Rebels also had iBeam technology so maybe the Cortex is not that ground-breaking. Kind of odd that DMM discontinued them so long ago and haven't really filled the gap until now (I could be wrong). The Rebels also had a "twin" (adjustable) finger rest which i found quite comfy, but these axes lack. Seems odd that the BD don't have a clippable hole at the bottom, rather force a stupid cord thingy to clip leashes.

How do you find the bottom of the cortex for push moves?

The lack of metal at the base has put me off getting a pair. It's probably not an issue if you are climbing modern steep mixed ( Apache type) but perhaps is in thrutchy chimney world (Clough's chimney type routes) or ledge shuffling land. 

I would like to find it's a non issue. I loved the handle on the Rebels ( great in cracks and gave a torquing option with the flat profile) and hope the cortex has the same qualities.

Thanks for following up and clarifying!

I have a pair of the Cortex tools.  I like them a lot.  They climb well and instill confidence.  

I have two complaints about the Cortex:

1:  I wish that there was an option to have some sort of sharp spike on the end of the handle.  Would be useful for balance on occasion.  

2:  I wish that there were aftermarket picks available for DMM tools.  The DMM picks are very burly (as befits a tool for Scottish climbs,) but I generally prefer picks that are a bit thinner, particularly for pure ice climbing.  I've got Krukonogi picks for other tools and their purce ice picks are simply on a different level (albeit not as durable.)  With a Krukonogi pick, I think that the Cortexes would be my favorite waterfall tool.   Hoping that Krukonogi (or Beartooth) will eventually start making aftermarket picks for DMM.  

Does anyone know if Grivel is playing with CNC axes again? Spotted this recently - it’s set up with a grivel blade and even seems to have an adjustable handle, but wondering if my prophecy is actually already coming true and it’s someone’s side project…

Hi Roger.  I'm not sure what you mean by push moves.  I've used the cortex extensively this season down to grade III,4 (often carrying one cortex and one quark) and theyre great.  the only adaption I've made is to put a thin line of grip tape up the curve of the shaft on the inside and out to aid with daggering at the base of routes or in descent.

The sort of move where you hold the head and use the base of the axe to do something like push off the far side of a wide chimney, or less 'pushy' use the axe horizontally to create a pull up bar and move up and above it ( sounds odd but it's got me out of a few problems)

I suppose more simply, is the base of the cortex useful when shoved against rock or ice?

(Wish I had your season, time for me to retire I think)

To keep this thread going down another rabbit hole…

Stas Beskin is hoping to get Krukonogi to make ice specific picks for Cortex, he needs a minimum of 20 orders tho…

https://www.instagram.com/stories/stasbeskin/3590324990043965733?utm_source...

Probably best to contact him through instagram if you are interested (obvious ethical conundrum aside that is).

How does everyone think the Coretex would perform in an Alpine context? Would the Hydra (spike etc) be more suitable?

Cheers