UKC

I recently bought a pair of the scarpa vs with high hopes. 
I guess this was down to a lack of research from my part and really struggle like other people with a really baggy heel. I love the sensitivity and wide toe box that these shoes bring althought something doesn’t feel right. 
I have quite a narrow feel with a wide toe box and was wondering if anyone had the same problem and what shoe they switched for or have advice about what shoe would be worth switching too. 
(recommendations would be helpful, I know not every shoe is for every person) thanks

I know it's a slightly irritating response but I'd find your nearest shop and try loads on!

Potentially the new VSR LV would be the one or the Dragon XT? Or try La Sportiva Skwama or Solution comp. Tenaya are quite narrow front to back but also soft so that could work.

I have a wide toe box and narrow heel and have been on a never ending search for the right shoe. 

In general, lace ups have been the best for me as you can leave the front loose and really crank the tightness for the heel.

Unparallel shoes generally have a heel that fit me but the toe box is consistently too narrow. Scarpa shoes generally have a toe box that fit me but a very baggy heel.

Tenaya are similar to Unparallel, although the Mastia and indalo do fit nice on the toe but the heel is too baggy.

La sportiva have been my best fit so far, particularly the katana lace and genius, but both of these gave me pain on the big toe knuckle. Might be because I sized too tight? Might be a slightly too narrow toe box. They've been the only shoes I can actually heel hook with. 

Whenever I've seen evolv or mad rock shoes in a shop, judging by the outline of the shoe alone, they look like they'd fit me the best. But whenever I've seen them I haven't had time to try them on, and they can be hard to find in the UK. 

Anyway good luck, and let me know if you find something as I'm still hunting! 

How much did you downsize?

Full size

This was very helpful thank you 

I'm a UK 45 and downsized to 43 in Instinct VCRs and other Scarpa shoes. Because the VCR is a performance shoe, it was initially very uncomfortable, and I could only wear it for 15 mins before taking them off. However, now they are comfy enough, but also tight enough that I can use them really well on steep edging, heelhooks, etc.

If you are wearing performance shoes, expect to downsize. As a very rough guide, Scarpa is usually 2 full EU sizes and La Sportiva is usually 2.5 or 3 full EU sizes in larger men's sizes (e.g. UK 7 to 11).

If you're wearing street size in a VS, you will find they are too big. 

Something like the Scarpa Vapour S may be more up your street. I downsize those from 45 to 43 again, but you could probably get away with downsizing them by a little less, e.g. 45 to 44.

Of course, I'm not saying this is good for your feet!

Instinct VS felt really grim on my feet, I guess due to my foot shape. But the instinct lace fitted great. I think laces are much more versatile for accommodating different foot shapes. 

I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel (I believe they're called Duck feet) and also struggled with shoes. The forefoot of the instincts feel great to me, but the heels have always been baggy on the sides and a bit of dead space below. La Sportiva Katana laces are alright, but a bit narrow in the forefoot. 

Best shoes for fit (for my duck feet):

Evolv Phantom - My favorite bouldering shoe, and not bad for sport

Mad Rock Drone 2 - Fit super well although terrible to put on (small foothole) and way too stiff. I would try the new drones, which are softer with a wider opening. 

Scarpa Instinct VSR-LV - Just got these, they may be a bit soft for little chip climbing, but they're great otherwise and have become a quick favorite. The heel doesn't fit as well as the drones or phantoms, but much better than the VS.

I've tried a few Unparrallel (flagship, TN pro) as well, and they're alright. I love the rubber, but it's either terribly tight on the toes or baggy in the heel.

Thanks this was super helpful 

I think I’m going to try some evolv 

Thanks this was super helpful 

I think I’m going to try some evolv 

Thanks this was super helpful 

I think I’m going to try some evolv 

Thanks this was super helpful 

I think I’m going to try some evolv 

So what do you reckon you'll try?

Not sure why my message was posted multiple times haha. 

As alluded to above, try loads on but also worth thinking about trying the LV versions as well. These are often tagged as ‘women’s’ but they fit my feet loads better, like the phantom LV/ Sirius LV are so much more snug on the heel than the equivalent normal sized version without being painful to get on. 

This is really useful, Instincts are perfect for me also at the front but the heels have a lot of dead space. Have never found a shoe with a well fitting heel, so sounds like the Phantoms are well worth a try.

How do you find the sizing compares to Instinct VS?