UKC

As it says on the tin, after a new hoody to replace my old ME Squall. Needs to have:

• Hood that goes over helmet
• Packs into own pocket
• As hard wearing as the Squall

I've been looking at the following and would be good to hear other peoples thoughts!

• BD Alpine Start
• Arc'teryx Squamish (too lightweight?)
• Patagonia Houdini (too lightweight?)

Probably just end up getting a Squall again but good to see what else is out there. 

I only have experience of the Squall and the Squamish. I wear the Squall a lot, the squamish mainly gets used for running. 

The squamish is far lighter and, despite being pretty tough for it's weight, doesn't offer the same warmth or weather protection.

Only one of those I've used is the BD Alpine Start, which I rate very highly

Reasonable fan of the Rab borealis as it feels less like bin bag than a lot of windshells and has as some stretch so fares a bit better grovelling up chimneys etc 

As galpinos has said, the squamish is a very thin windshell and although I occasionally climb in mine you have to be careful because it doesn't have the abrasion resistance. I think their most similar would be the gamma lightweight/sl (hard wearing but it doesn't pack into a pocket). Rab do the borealis which is pretty good, looks like there is a new model, not sure what it is like. Montane do the tenacity nano

Thanks, I thought the Arcteryx and Patagonia were more like running windproofs rather than what I'm after. 

Hi Joe,

I've had a Squamish, an Alpine Houdini (waterproof version) and an Alpine Start.  The Alpine Start feels a bit like wearing two Squamishs, one on top of the other.  It's feels a bit warmer and more protective, packs down small, but the outer fabric doesn't feel much tougher.  I don't really like the fit of Houdini, quite boxy and without a waist cord or wrist velcro.  They'd all work as a emergency layer on the back of the harness, but if I was setting off wearing something and it was at all thrutchy, I'd probably wear something more like the Borealis.  

I reviewed the Alpine Start Hood years back https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/softshell/black_diamond_alpine_sta... Still have it, still really like it, still use it reasonably regularly. But, now perhaps even better (partly because it is slightly lighter and the hood is a bit better) is https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/softshell/montane_lite-speed_jacke... 

Never owned a Squall so don't know who tough it is or isn't in comparison. But no holes in either of those ones despite plenty of use on rock.

I've had 4 or 5 ME Squall jackets over the last few years and yet to find anything better. I wear it almost every day for work, even as my outer layer for Scottish winter on a dry day. They take a beating and are cheap. 

I've also had a Squarmish which ripped too easily and a Houdini which is good for running in but I wouldn't take climbing. 

I use a Rab Borealis for Alpine and UK rock climbing, it's a good value jacket.

I have a Squamish and something similar by Montane.  They’re great for hiking.  Really breathable.

However, I have an old Rab Zephyr - similar to the Borealis - and it’s perfect.  Stretchy, tough for the weigh, great fit and brilliant value.

Funnily enough, we've got a group test of this exact category coming up later this year. Whilst I don't wish to give away too much, partly because we're yet to receive all the products, I can confirm we'll be reviewing the Rab Borealis, Black Diamond Alpine Start, Me Echo Hoody Jacket, Montane Tenacity Nano, Sprayway Hallin & Charn, Inselberg Quintic Hoody and the Patagonia Airshed Pro.

I've got the Montane Tenacity Nano and that's definitely worthy of consideration. Tim has really rated the Sprayway Hallin too, not least because it's around half the price of most of the other ones we've got on test (I just checked, it really is - £75 for the Hallin vs. £160 for the Tenacity Nano).

Another vote for the Rab borealis 

I use my squall and borealis fairly interchangeably, squall maybe is slightly more windproof but only slightly. Borealis is very slightly more comfortable, the fabric is softer on bare skin but is equally hard wearing 

Yes, I'll join in the Borealis fan club.

The fabric seems very robust (climbing / thrutching, bouncing down a road after coming off a bike..). It is nice against the skin and can layer quite well.  washes well.

and, it is windproof! Two useful chest pockets.

Hi, I've got both an original Squall (now faded from cardinal orange or red to a pink peachy colour) and a Houdini.  

I'd definitely get the Squall again...it's been totally abused and other than the zip starting to fail it's still going strong.  The Houdini is a proper windproof...very light but really wouldn't last being trashed on rocks.  

The Squall gets used for everything from shopping to climbing, scrambling to the odd bit off MTB use.  

It's probably the better part of ten years old and other than one tiny hole where I snagged it on a sharp bit of rock and more or less dangled off it there is no visible damage...I'll happily get another if I outlive the one I have!

Another vote for the Rab Borealis. I bought mine specifically for alpine routes, light and small to stuff in my rucksack and enough protection when it gets cooler higher up.