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Any classic Alpine routes that generally require an open air bivi?

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 Kai 15 Apr 2025

I've done a bit of climbing around Chamonix.  

All of my climbs have either started from an alpine hut or from the valley, and all have been done in a day.

I was curious if there are any classic Alpine climbs these days that typically require a night out (not in a hut.)  The only one that I am familiar with that is often climbed over two days with a bivi is the Frendo Spur on the Midi.  Folks seem to often bivi above the rock section, so they can get an early start on the snow/ice top part.  

Any other such routes?  

I recognize that in today's environment, there are climbers that take a couple of hours to climb routes that traditionally took more than one day.  I'm asking about classic routes where the traditional "guidebook time" involved a couple of days of climbing, regardless of whatever speed record has been set recently.  

 Doug 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Kai:

Peuterey integrale ?

 alasdair19 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Kai:

Walker spur. 

 HammondR 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Kai:

Aiguille du Plan North Face Direct. Same as Frendo, bivi at top of rock section.

 MG 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Kai:

Theres loads but mostly not done much as a result!  There are also bivi huts (particularly in Italy) which are a half way house. Typically garden shed type things with bunks and blankets. Worth looking at definitive guidebooks to see what's possible.

 MG 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Doug:

> Peuterey integrale ?

It's got two bivi huts along it, although most  people still seem to need a bivi too!

 MG 15 Apr 2025
In reply to Kai:

One whole area not well served by huts at all really is the Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn area from the North-East

 Ian Parsons 20 Apr 2025
In reply to alasdair19:

> Walker spur. 

Croz, too.

What's currently normal for the Dru's remaining American Direct? Climb it and descend to the Charpoua in one day? I'm assuming that bivies on the summit/descent are included. In a similar vein Matterhorn Schmid Route.

I suspect that many people still bivouac on the Eiger. Or is this thread just about Chamonix? Not sure from the OP.

If the Dolomites count as alpine there are probably a few more. Philipp Flamm? No idea. Various Marmolada routes, particularly those with a handy bivy cave: Tempi Moderni, Cinquantenario Fisi, Vinatzer/Messner, Ideale, Pesce - quite possibly.

Not sure whether I've spelt Walter Philipp's name correctly. One 'l' and three 'p's seem unusual - but it appears thus in guidebooks.

Post edited at 06:11
 alasdair19 20 Apr 2025
In reply to Ian Parsons:

I've heard people shamelessly ab from the jammed block on the American direct. We bivvied on the original route but I think that is regularly climbed only in wintery conditions these days. 

Unless your really quick you'll probably bivvy in the west Pilar of the Scheideggwetterhorn near the Eiger.

The routes on the S side of the Barre des Ecrins? 

We bivvied on the traverse of the Grand Jorasses. 

 ExiledScot 20 Apr 2025
In reply to alasdair19:

> The routes on the S side of the Barre des Ecrins? 

South Pillar being the classic. Wonder how this route has faired in warmer times and after last years biblical rains. The Ecrins could be a bit loose in places even 20 years ago. 


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