UKC

Appreciate some advice from someone who has done the Mittellegi (integrale from Ostegg Hut) in the late season (last week of Aug / first week of Sep)

The classic equipment list is to simply climb the entire route in mountaineering boots - ideally 'summer' boots with some flexibility to aid the rock-climbing, but crampon-compatible.

The group of us are all competent climbers (lead well above 5.9), and have good alpine/mountain/now/ice experience BUT
- only own fully-ridged, fully-automatic winter boots
- and admittedly haven't spent much time climbing summer rock at 5.9/5.7 in aforementioned fully-ridged boots. We'll be putting in some practice of course.

At end Aug, it would seem that the snow only appears very high up on the route, and taking and climbing in approach shoes is a comfortable and worthwhile tradeoff before finishing in our winter-boots.  

Any advice on this tactic? Or rather a strong preference to invest in summer-boots which might be only for this trip? Much appreciated!

Fully rigid boots would be fine, if a bit hot and clumsy. Life would be much more comfortable in summer mountain boots but I don't think approach shoes would be that great.  The climbing isn't hard, except on the steep bits where there are fixed ropes (max. Severe, if that means anything). You will need crampons for the descent to the Jungfraujoch, if you are descending that way.

Did the integrale a decade ago so the route/fixed pro may have changed...day 1 to ostegg hut(a half day really) day 2 ostegg to mittelegi hut, day 3 summit and descent.

It was one our first alpine climbs so we took the kitchen sink. Did the majority in sportiva Nepal b3s, and climbed the pitches on day 2 in rock shoes. My profile pic is from the 2nd of these pitches.

I'm not sure but I think the response above sounds like they just did the standard mittelenghi. On the integrale the hardest rock pitches were on day 2 ie not on the standard, and I don't remember fixed ropes on those pitches - there is fixed ropes on day 1&3.

If I was to do it again, I'd take b2s and probably still take rock shoes for the pitches on day 2. I remember on those pitches being glad I had rock shoes. 

Have fun, it's amazing.

You are right - we did it from Eismeer, so I don't know about lower down.  The Eismeer approach is an unique experience however, so not to be dismissed!  Hobbit tunnels lead to the glacier, apparently originally built so workers could store meat in the glacier to keep it cool.

What length of rope would be recommended? 

If I did it again I'd probably take 50m for.abseils on the way down, but 30m.would work too I'm sure.

I was up in late September a couple years ago and a pair of Trango Cube were more than adequate and probably wouldn't have wanted anything beefier/heavier.

Climbing in approach shoes sounds comfy but the extra weight in the pack carrying the boots cancel that nicety real quick

I'm general Id say walking to huts inapproach shoes is well worthwhile comfort-wise, even with the extra weight.

I’ve done the Integral once and the normal Mittleggi a few times.

I’d take light summer boots like a Scarpa Ribelle or similar. The Eiger is quite slick limestone and it is nice to have something with a bit of precession/feel. 

I wouldn’t recommend Nepal Extremes as you’re just making life hard for yourself. They will of course work, but they’re not exactly the best tool for the job.

I also wouldn’t recommend carrying trainers up the route as the walk in very short (1-2 hours) and the walk off is non existent, step off Piste into the Train station.

We took rock shoes on the Integral which allowed us to Free climb the amazing crux pitches, which are about VS. There is tat everywhere so you could French Free if you needed to and wanted to avoid changing into rock boots. 

I would also take a rope longer than 30m - I have taken both 50 and 60 in the past. There is quite a bit of abseiling on the south ridge and whilst I’m sure they could be down climbed one might enjoy the security of rappelling, especially by that stage. 

The descent down the south ridge is long. In my experience the descent takes a similar amount of time to the climb from the Mittleggi hut. 

A couple of very large krabs - Petzl William are handy for clipping around fixed rope/junk. 

Enjoy it, it’s a brilliant ridge, one of the best anywhere. 

I guess it depends what sort of "Winter" boots you have...

The ideal would be B2 and a pair of climbing shoes (for day 2) but Sportiva Nepal/etc plus climbing shoes would be fine. I doubt it's worth buying new boots for 1 climb. 

In recent years there has been no snow on the Eiger summit by late August so you can get up the Mittelegi, down the South ridge and up to the South Eigerjoch without crampons. Assuming the snow is soft by the time you get there, many people continue all the way to the train without crampons...but it's definitely worth taking them just in case!

40m rope is enough to do all the abseils on the South ridge - don't miss any anchors! 

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I have
- Some stiff B1s - which might do the trick but are marginal with crampons (La Sportiva Vajolets)
- And I have some proper C3s

It seems my best options are:
- Go for it in my stiff B1s, and if conditions are not dry on arrival, then rent B2s from Grindlewald sports
- Or try the combo of approach shoes (to hopefully walk quite high?) plus C3s

Yes, sounds like several abs are 25m - requiring a 50m rope
Good beta on the large Krabs... thanks!

Renting strap on crampons for your stiff b1s would be a good option. 

"sounds like several abs are 25m - requiring a 50m rope"

Nope...40m is plenty. But not really worth chopping 10m off your rope.