UKC

NEWS: Steve McClure on his 'pegless' ascent of Yma O Hyd, E10 7a

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 UKC News 10 Jun 2025

Once you decide to go 'pegless' you are kind of committed, you can't exactly grab a peg if you get tired, and with just cams on your rack it's gonna be a fiddly effort if you fluff a placement to try and clip a peg instead!

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In reply to UKC News:

It's great that he never commented on the grade of the 'pegless version' (or at least, that's according to climber magazine).

Post edited at 09:55
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 nufkin 11 Jun 2025
In reply to anonimo.abruzzese:

> It's great that he never commented on the grade of the 'pegless version' (or at least, that's according to climber magazine).

Perhaps we can look forward to a specific 'McClure does pegging' article on UKC

 JohnDexter 11 Jun 2025
In reply to nufkin:

> Perhaps we can look forward to a specific 'McClure does pegging' article on UKC

Have to classify that comment as NSFW; I actually spat my coffee out when I read it!

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 shark 11 Jun 2025
In reply to anonimo.abruzzese:

> It's great that he never commented on the grade of the 'pegless version' (or at least, that's according to climber magazine).

Although he left it “gradeless” he did comment (probably because he was asked) saying:

“Overall skipping the pegs isn’t actually that much harder. A grade harder? I’m really not sure. With it being such an individual challenge I for once don’t feel the need to put a grade in it. Like who grades what an E1 is if you solo it, or if you climb 10 of them in a day?”

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 Nutty 12 Jun 2025
In reply to UKC News:

Does anyone else find it weird how pro-peg Steve is in the Climber article?

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In reply to UKC News:

Wow, that is amazing  ... What a fabulous ascent style ... I find it absolutely staggering that Steve (into his fifties I believe) ... is nailing all these hard scary trad routes (and also sport) ... absolutely hats off to you Steve ... (I couldn't even do an E2 in my 20's ...never mind an E10 in my 50's) brilliant achievement   👍👍

 Michael Gordon 17 Jun 2025
In reply to anonimo.abruzzese:

> It's great that he never commented on the grade of the 'pegless version' (or at least, that's according to climber magazine).

Where are you seeing this? Because of publication dates, it's usually a month or so before you'll see a mag reporting stuff. 

 Neil Morrison 17 Jun 2025
In reply to Nutty: Yeah, seems strange to me as they are ticking bombs. I’ve long thought the better style is without pegs and though I’ve placed them on routes in the past on FAs I wouldn’t now.

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