UKC

Flying Buttress Dinas Cromlech, What Ropes

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 Tomo4415 03 Jul 2025

Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

1
 JohnDexter 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

> Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

> Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

I did it in 2018 using half ropes. From memory, I think you could manage on a single without too much bother but you would probably want to break the spike/col belays into two as per Rockfax rather than skipping the pinnacle.


OP Tomo4415 03 Jul 2025
In reply to JohnDexter:

Hi, thanks for your reply. That is pretty much what I was thinking, Loads o times I find myself on a route and think "a single rope would be fine here". Its often a little less Faff.

2
 jezb1 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

Done it a few times on a single, no drama as long as you’re sensible with extending gear appropriately.

 jimtitt 03 Jul 2025
In reply to jezb1:

In the near hundred years since the FA the number of people who have climbed it on a single rope must be uncountable!

2
OP Tomo4415 03 Jul 2025
In reply to jezb1:

Thanks.

 Trangia 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

Did it intermittently for decades from the 1960s until about 2010. Always on a single rope - no problems - good advice above on using extended runners.

 Sean Kelly 03 Jul 2025
In reply to jimtitt:

> In the near hundred years since the FA the number of people who have climbed it on a single rope must be uncountable!

As are the number who have shunned the use of a rope altogether!

3
 Moacs 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

> Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

> Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

Necessary, no.

Helpful, yes.

The first is true of all routes; the second of many.

 Moacs 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

> Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

> Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

Necessary, no.

Helpful, yes.

The first is true of all routes; the second of many.

1
 Moacs 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

> Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

> Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

Necessary, no.

Helpful, yes.

The first is true of all routes; the second of many.

4
 Moacs 03 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

> Hi all, Just a quick one. Not to get into a big discussion re the merits of Double ropes but would you say double ropes are a necessary on Flying Buttress? Sometimes I just find it less faff using a single rope and long extenders where needed. Anyone here climbed it much? 

> Would appreciate your advice, Thanks

Necessary, no.

Helpful, yes.

The first is true of all routes; the second of many.

4
In reply to Tomo4415:

Totally unnecessary. Likely to be more of an encumbrance than a help.

2
In reply to Tomo4415:

Did it a few years ago with a 60m single, including running the first pitches to the pinnacle together. Zero issues.

 LucaC 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

I've guided it many times with a single 50m. You have to be slightly careful with extenders on the penultimate two traversing pitches before the chimney to avoid rope drag or lifting a wire out, but otherwise it's straight forward. 

2
OP Tomo4415 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Tomo4415:

Thanks For everyone who replied. Very Helpful.


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