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Summer alpine/trad rucksack advice

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 Birks 04 Jul 2025

Looking for advice/recommendations on a rucksack for summer trad or alpine day hits.

I've got an older model 28l osprey mutant that has been perfect, but it's on its last legs.

Looking at 28-30l range, and has to have rope attachment, ice axe attachments and ideally helmet attachment. I'm looking for good back padding and therefore don't want a "super light and fast" model eg blue ice dragonfly, as I find these types to be not very supportive for carrying a full rack/rope etc on long walk ins. 

I know osprey do a 38l version now but that's too big. Don't know why they dropped the 28l size... Rab ascendor seems to be an option but has no rope attachment.

Any recommendations that don't cost mega bucks? 

 joe.91 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

More a crag/haul style pack but the smaller version of mine is still available:

https://shorturl.at/YYa9Q

Other options similar to your old Osprey could be:

 Toerag 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Karrimor SF Sabre30? - it's the modern version of the classic HotRock/ice 30.  Doesn't have a rope strap, but the lid straps are long so you can simply put it under the lid. The upper compression straps unclip so you can clip the rope under those easily if necessary.

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 Nathan8816 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I think the Rab ascender is a copy of the lowe alpine renegade. I've got one and it's great, was perfect for use in the alps and as a day bag and carries a rope great - it goes under the shoulder adjustment straps which is why they're buckles

youtube.com/watch?v=dEpn87VJ6oU&

 MischaHY 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Salewa Climb Mate 25. Fits everything, external attachment of rope/axes/helmet is easy. Very comfy and great value. I fit all the kit for a long mountain route plus bivvy gear and 3l water (with good organisation). 

 Chenks 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I'm a big fan of the Deuter guide, I find it to be very versatile and durable. Has all the attachments you've listed and I find it to be very comfortable.

 GCO 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I’ve not tried one, so I’m not offering an opinion, but I do like the look of the Montane Valen and wondered if anyone has any experience of it.

OP Birks 04 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Thanks for all the responses, much appreciated 🙂

 DaveHK 05 Jul 2025
In reply to MischaHY:

> Salewa Climb Mate 25. Fits everything, external attachment of rope/axes/helmet is easy.

So doesn't actually fit everything.  

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 Mike-W-99 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Have you tried a dragonfly? I know you have dismissed it but I've found it very good for long multi pitch etc.

 philipjardine 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

ME tupilak.  remarkably durable for such a light sac.  Mine lasted for several hundred days summer and winter in the alps before getting some little holes and some of the stiching going and the waist buckle breaking.   I then bought a second one the same size and the bigger one.  Pretty much a perfect summer alps sac I would say.  

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 MischaHY 05 Jul 2025
In reply to DaveHK:

Putting those things inside is pointless because you need quick access to them anyway and it’s impractical. A quality external attachment system is far superior and leaves a smaller pack form when climbing. 

10
 DaveHK 05 Jul 2025
In reply to MischaHY:

> Putting those things inside is pointless because you need quick access to them anyway and it’s impractical. A quality external attachment system is far superior and leaves a smaller pack form when climbing. 

Horses for courses. In some circumstances a bag like that works well, in others it doesn't. So it's not 'far superior' it just suits you or you prefer it. 

Personally, I rarely need quick access to rope or helmet so having them in the bag rather than outside is better. But that's for UK trad, alpine climbing is different.

Post edited at 08:21
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OP Birks 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Got the 18l version and whilst it's good for super light days out, it is uncomfortable at carrying any sort of load.

I'm not really after the super light bag types here. More slow and comfy and doesn't fall apart when brushing rock.

 jezb1 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I was given a Blue Ice Chiru when it came out and that’s been my go to bag since.

1
 Noddyrog 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Probably to be ruled out by price, but, Aguille Alpine makes bombproof packs.

They have a good range of climbing packs.

I use a Midi SP 35L pack ( with hip belt and hip belt pockets ) as my go-to backpacking pack. It is very comfortable on my back, even though it has a fairly simple support pad. I carry around 10k with no problems.

I have much lighter packs which were expensive, but, just not as user friendly as the Aguille Alpine pack.

1
 gammarus 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Noddyrog:

Yes - go and see Adrian at Aiguille, and he'll build your ideal pack. 

https://www.aiguillealpine.co.uk

1
 Sleepymouse 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I'm a bit of a Deuter fan.

As mentioned the Guide 34+8 is good and the padding around the waist belt is removable if you want to lighten it.

The Deuter Futura 26 although smaller than you're looking for is also very good and has a comfortable air back.

Both these rucksack also have a handy zip on the front to access the contents without opening the lid. The Futura also has a rain cover in the base, it maybe possible to carry a helmet using the attachment loops near the top and a rope under the lid using the side compression straps.

P.S. I don't work for Deuter

Post edited at 19:43
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 Tom Ripley 05 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

As a Cumbrian you should deffo have an Aiguille sack. They last forever and are comfy.

I use a Zyphur for cragging - ie lugging stuff to the crag 

And either a Couloir or Stratos for climbing with. 
 

If you only want one bag a Stratos will work well for both. 

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 WildCamper 06 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

Another vote for the Deuter Guide. My and my lad both have them, great bag with all the features you want.

Ours came with the helmet carrier so I didn't need to spend another £15 on one 

 Damo 08 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

If your Osprey Mutant 28 is like mine it's actually more like 32l. Great pack though.

If you want a similarly robust replacement, I'd say either BD Speed 30 or Deuter Guide.

I tried a Montane Valen in the shop the other day and really liked it, esp for my long back length in the 40l version, but the 30 is same design. Maybe a little light for what you want, but seems a good simple alpine pack at a not-stupid price.

 GEd_83 09 Jul 2025
In reply to Birks:

I had the mutant 28l too, it was a great pack. The only pack I've tried that's better than it, is the blue ice chiru. I use the 32l version for summer alpine stuff and winter, but they do a 25l too.

Post edited at 08:03
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