UKC

Hi!

My partner is returning from surgery and we were hoping for some recommendations for the best mod on Yorkshire grit as his first climb post surgery.

Suggestions further afield would be welcome too, but ideally on grit!

Not quite Mod but Fluted Columns (HVD 3c) is 3c and alot of fun!

Most of the mods at Almscliff are posh down climbs?

This is one I enjoyed recently at Stanage:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/martello_crack...

Martello Cracks is a genuine Mod and a genuine climb (not a graded descent route). I often recommend it as a first lead. It would fit the bill well as a first climb back after surgery. Though you don't say what grade your partner was climbing before surgery - if E6, possibly ignore this recommendation!. Fluted Columns is definitely not Mod! (not even "Armscliffe Mod")

Martin

Another vote for Martello Cracks. One of the very few mods that is actually a quality climb rather than a descent. It's very easy and well protected. And once you've done it you're at stanage with other easy routes.

Idle Slab at Brimham Rocks.

Then easy top rope set up on Amusement Slab behind Cubic Block for experimenting with smears again. 

Is Burbage North in Yorkshire? Anyway, there's about a dozen nice Mods there and a painless walk-in. I can't think of a better crag for getting back into climbing. I've enjoyed some worthwhile scrambling in Chew Valley recently eg Wilderness Gully and Charnel Clough. Saddleworth is Yorkshire and that can't be changed. 

Yes it is.

I doubt that  Saddleworth people are complying with the current Yorkshire water hosepipe ban........ 

That’s actually quite an interesting question (!). I see that while Burbage is in “Yorkshire”, along with Millstone and Higgar, Lawrencefield is in Derbyshire. Stanage is mostly in Derbyshire but the northern end represents the boundary. So at High Neb you could climb in Derbyshire but belay well back in Yorkshire.

Ow't at Rob's Rocks, Chew Valley is mod in some guides and diff in others. I thought that was quite good (although probably more diff than mod). Not Yorkshire obv but it is grit. 

Diehards  will tell you that it definitely is  in Yorkshire. See Pete P's post.

Whilst doing High Neb Buttress in 1983, I fell off in Yorkshire and landed in Derbyshire! Ouch!

It's all Yorkshire, lass. See Tom's post.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

My dyslexia is definitely getting worse as I read it as, -

'Is Burbage in North Yorkshire'.

Tony.

Not North, but South Yorkshire. And therefore Yorkshire. I don't know if "South Yorkshire" is still a thing administratively. Thatcher abolished the metropolitan districts because they would keep voting Labour.

Up until 1974 it was part of the West Riding. Still is for us empire loyalists.

What about 'Doris' at Ilkley, I'm sure it was mod when I first led it 50 years ago.

John Gresty

Doris is now Severe given how polished and poorly protected it is

It's a scary solo. Always was.

Which is why it isn't Mod!

Sorry I'm late to this. No 3 star experiences in the latest YMC gritstone definitives but the following were all worthwhile to very good:

At Almscliffe: Three Chockstones Chimney 

At Baildon: Sensational Exposure*; Promenade*

At Brimham: Centre Point; Idle Slabs

At Great Wolfrey: Huff Puff Chimney; Chockstone Crack*; Hangover Chimney*

At Slipstones: Staircase; Edge Route; Moderator; Pinnacle Chimney

At Hetchell: Proctologist's Delight

At Heptonstall: Main Buttress Left*

At Rylstone: Lichen Chimney and Beginner's Chimney

At Rolling Gate: Great Chimney.