UKC

Hey all,

I’m after some good deep water solo spots around North Wales. I’ve done a bit at Angler’s Zawn in Benllech and want to explore more.

I’ve seen lots of route names mentioned online and in Deep Water by Mike Roberson, but there’s no detailed topos or clear info on where to find them. Also wondering if any sport or trad routes on the Rockfax app can be done as DWS?

I don’t have the Rockfax app yet but am happy to buy it or any guidebooks if they’re worth it.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

Hi Joe, it's basically a hodge podge of information between different guidebooks, UKC, Rockfax and pdfs/blog posts. Essentially most of it takes digging around a lot on the internet and using guidebooks and ukc, and then going to the spots for an initial scoping visit and trying to work things out. I find that's quite often the way with dws (that's not in mallorca or on the south coast major spots).

I'll write a more detailed response later with all the crags I've visited in N.wales and the main info sources for them. 

I've been asking about some recently on UKB and Andy Moles has been really helpful, he said he might be writing a mini-guide if there is demand so this might help persaude him... I think it would really help to get more people out to explore the N.Wales DWS as although it takes some effort to find and climb (with tides and weather etc) - it is really good! I try and upload some YouTube clips to show people what the climbs are like and get people psyched for it, i link them on the ukc route video section. 

George. 

Cheers George, really appreciate the reply — that’s super helpful already. Sounds like a bit of a treasure hunt but I’m well up for that, especially if the climbing’s as good as it sounds. Would definitely be keen to see any clips or info you’ve got, and a mini-guide would be class — hope Andy goes for it. Looking forward to hearing more when you’ve got time!

I'm tempted by the idea of doing a mini-guide but I'd like to do it well, so don't hold your breath...I can't see it happening this year. I'm also a touch conflicted, because I like the slightly clandestine side of DWS, part of the fun is sniffing these things out...

That said, this list has all the stuff I know about (apart from a few things which are not on UKC and probably not recorded anywhere...nice to keep a few little mysteries eh....)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/north_wales_dws-5197

Obviously it's nothing more than a list of things that have been soloed, in many cases there's no information about how safe they are or approach or tidal/sea state logistics, but it's maybe a useful source for places to check out.

Just to note some of those areas on Andy’s list have seasonal access restrictions, due to birds/seals.

Check the RAD and UKC before you visit: sometimes the access info on UKC is for the wrong crag due to how crags are grouped on UKC vs RAD.

I think that actually very few of them are restricted - I know there's a cormorant nest which affects two of the Lighthouse routes, and there are a few obscure ones that I'm not sure about, but the majority are not affected by birds, and possibly only Angel Bay by seals in the autumn.

These are only the ones i have been to myself and can think of atm, mainly go off Andy's list for ideas of where to go. i haven't climbed all the routes either, just been to crags to check out. 

LLYN

• Nant Gwrtheyrn - TOPO - online topo and some info on the Llyn climbers facebook page   https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2019/08/nant-gwrtheyrn.html. Bunch of nice 7's in a very cool zawn - very conditions dependent - access a little sketchy- see comments on ukc
• Trwyn Maen Melyn (Lleyn) - quick access from the carpark, lots of cool looking trad in the immediate area too. Needs calm waters as very exposed. The NoseE2 5b as a dws (maybe on Llyn Facebook page) - lowish - fairly easy grade
• Trwyn Bychestyn (just walk along coast from previous climb - pin in accurate on ukc) - Pirates of Pen Llyn - pretty high and a little snappy, cool line but I decided wouldn't like to solo it after a toppy.  -   details on Llyn facebook page.     Sure there are more dws on this coastline, only had one wavy day here exploring, wild spot tho!

Anglesey 

• Benllech - Best low grade/intro crag, very easy access, low walls, can climb pretty much anywhere on the face!
• Rhoscolyn - Electric Blue - plenty of info on that one online, video by Pete Whittaker too

Llandudno Area

• Craig y Don - on the little Orme, great crag - very easy access - overall quite freindly crag - need a spring high tide, I think at least 6.5m height for tidal gauge at Llandudno to be safe on the top outs. I have uploaded a bunch of YouTube vids for the best low grade lines on the ukc page. 
• Gateau Zawn - super friendly zawn - climb at highish tide (I think high neap is fine) - not the best lines but once chalked they are great fun - good viewing ledge and not too high - bolts at top to help you ab down and clean/chalk the face climbs. uploaded a video of the decent 6a+ and the 6c/7a face climb. 

Other stuff on the Great Orme around Lighthouse crags which I haven't been to but Andy has helpfully commented on on UKB. 

Also - for areas from Manchester there is Hodge Close Quarry in the Lakes which is brill, needs an inflatable. 

Send me a message on UKC if you'd like to go to some of the spots above, keen to do some weekend trips this summer,

George. 

On above post forgot to add - Llyn guidebook for the Llyn crags is only semi useful for dws. don't think it actaully shows any routes...

The North Wales limestone (2023) guide and the the 2025 supplement very useful for the Llandudno area crags.

Anglesey crags i think just use UKC

We've chatted about a dws miniguide or adding dws into a new routes supplement for Pen Llyn.

I've DWSd a few more lines like Twll Coch Flake (HVS 5a) and William's Grand Day Out (VS 5a) and I'm sure there there would be more around there.

If you're doing to do a mini-guide, I reckon it might as well be the whole of N Wales not just Llŷn - let me know, I'd be happy to collaborate.

Yeah, that would make sense. I've got some time off coming up and I'm keen to get out dwsing on Pen Llyn, I'll try and get some topo photos taken. Eilir is dead keen too, sure he would be keen to collab.