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TRIP REPORT: Finding - and Climbing - the Troll Wall

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 UKC Articles 24 Jul 2025

Sixty years to the day after topping out Troll Wall, Europe's tallest and steepest rock face, Tony Howard looks back on his first encounter with the wall, and gives a brief account of how the ascent came to pass.

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 lepbe 24 Jul 2025
In reply to UKC Articles:

A really cool article, thanks! 

 spidermac 24 Jul 2025
In reply to UKC Articles:

Did this in 78 with Gerry Rooney. Spent 1month camped below the face & only had 2 days without rain! Spent 3 days on the route finnishing in thick fog. Bivy gear was an arran jersey & an orange plastic bag. Wanted to climb it free but got to the great wall & it was a waterfall.There was an old bleached rope hanging down it from a  previous winter attempt/ascent? so Gerry prussiked up this to find the rope was loosely wound round a peg not tied off!!. Finnished the grade 6 chimneys in the rain in walking boots!! Got lost on the descent & bivied under a boulder. Told Gerry I could hear voices & he was convinced I had lost it - turned out to be Arne randers heen who led us down to the road!! Next day our hands were so painful had to shout for help to unzip the tent.

 john smith 11 28 Jul 2025
In reply to UKC Articles:

Happy birthday indeed Tony and the same greetings to rest of the teams.  Great effort perfectly documented in your excellent book Troll Wall.  Well done Lad


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