UKC

Following on from her article earlier in the month detailing her top five physical techniques for shorter climbers, Tina Breslin explores some psychological approaches to help climbers of all sizes, but which might be particularly helpful for those at the shorter end of the spectrum!

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The constant reference to 'shortness' in climbing discussions is wearing thin. Natural rock formations weren’t shaped with climbers in mind—holds are where they are. We all adapt.

Some routes feature widely spaced holds—these may be more challenging for shorter climbers, particularly on vertical or slab terrain. But on steep overhangs requiring extreme body tension, taller climbers can be at a disadvantage.

Similarly, routes with closely spaced holds may be trickier for taller climbers to maneuver efficiently. Small crimps or edges present challenges for heavier climbers, even if they're lean. Tiny pockets or thin cracks can be inaccessible for those with large hands—often male climbers.

Everyone faces unique limitations. Perhaps the real challenge isn’t the rock, but the mindset that views difficulty as injustice. Let's move past the self-victimization and focus on adapting, improving, and appreciating the diversity of challenges climbing offers.

I'm not sure if you've read the article, but it's pretty much all about adapting, improving, and appreciating the diversity of challenges climbing offers...

Thanks Rob. I did read the article, hence the first line in my opening response which I trust you read also?

Indeed I did, it's just that for someone who had a lot of complaints about the article you seemed to agree with each and every sentiment it shared within it 😂

Oh, it's a great article, as was the previous one. But the 12 or so references to 'short' and the 4 references to 'reach' in this article alone smack of 'woe is me'.

How many 9A boulderers are 80kg or more? Yet there's little reference to this dominant 'determinant of climbing success' at the harder levels, which is weight - and by some stretch. (See what I did there?) 😉. If you don't belive me, go try hang the smallest rungs at your local wall. Now put on a 10kg weighted vest and repeat the exercise!

As someone that has long celebrated being lanky, I think I'd be pretty bitter about being short. In this regard, Tina is much more dignified than I think I would be 😂

Don't worry, I believe you!!

The way I've always looked at it is that everyone has their superpower, but - on the flip side - everyone has their kryptonite too. Being short has the bonus of being lighter, which definitely has its benefits, but that lack of reach undoubtedly comes with its catches. I am neither short nor light, but have used lankiness to my advantage on countless occasions. My historic weakness was simply that I was weak, which isn't aided by the fact I'm also a whole lot heavier!! 

I don't really know where I'm going with this, other than that I think we're in agreement that each 'pro' has a corresponding 'con'. On balance though, I am really glad I'm lanky, as I have no idea how I'd have climbed half of what I have without having a long set of arms!!

What's your height and weight?

I thought it was fabulous and almost the opposite of what Shani seems worried about. In a phrase: 'get over being short and try these ideas'.

We might also ask how many 9A boulderers could be 5'1". The answer being probably more than we think if we graded for the technical skill of the likes of Mori and had many more hard problems that suited that demographic to aid elite development.

The article seems to me to be very practically aimed at getting more out of climbing in the middle ground and a lot of it applies to everyone.

There is a message of "get over being short" but also an explicit claim that being vertically-challenged  is a thing - if not the most important thing (given the 12 references to 'short' in the article and only passing reference to other kinds of limitations).

My point was that we all have challenges so why focus on that one? The tips suggested can be applied by all. 

Why "Beta for the Brain: Five Mental Tools for the Vertically-Challenged" rather than "Beta for the Brain: Five Mental Tools for Climbers"?

This isn’t a dating forum. 

I'm recruiting for panto season. I've come to the right thread to find Dopey and Grumpy.

As the very lanky guy that commissioned this piece, I feel like it's worth mentioning that Tina explicitly told me that she felt the tips in her articles applied to all climbers, hence the introductions to each piece, which mention that whilst the skills might be written by a shorter climber with short people in mind, they also apply to those at the other end of the spectrum. I'm 14 inches taller than Tina, and I know that I could make use of each and every tip in both of her articles, regardless of how they might be framed.

Taller climbers like myself do undeniably have unique issues that we face, relative hold size and lugging about all that extra skeleton can be tough, and the fact that you don't see many tall people in the pro-climbing ranks demonstrates that height is far from everything in climbing, as it might be for sports like basketball or volleyball.

Fortunately, Tina's article doesn't claim otherwise. We asked her to focus on the short-climber experience because that's what she knows, and the assistance of shorter climbers in overcoming the difficulties they face in no way makes my own difficulties as a taller climber any greater.

To quote from the very article we're talking about:

'everyone faces their own battles on the wall, but if your shorter friend is struggling (again), maybe give them a little grace for the grumbles. Chances are, it's not about you'.

Both tall and short people face unique struggles in climbing, focusing on those faced by one group doesn't eliminate those suffered by others.

If Tina's brief was "to focus on the short-climber experience", I retract my criticism.

As a shortish climber (average height woman with terrible ape index) I’d personally be really interested in reading the same type of article from a particularly tall climber - and I’m sure there’s equally a lot to learn for everyone about (eg) tension, flexibility and getting the most out of your finger strength. 

More of this sort of thing please! 

The title of the article mentions "vertically challenged". What did you expect it to say? "Vertically challenged" being a euphemism for "shorter than average"

I guess the answer to that question is firstly it links well with the other article and secondly,  although short and tall climbers complaining is common, articles of the quality of Tina's are rare (providing practical solutions that particularly benefit body types away from the average). I'd add, it might rile you and others a bit, but it's not a good idea to try and spread good ideas by strongly calling out the likely beneficiaries.

Tina is a short climber role model, helping others from experience from hard won lessons.

As for grumpy, pots and kettles 'n'all.

That's exactly my point! The articles are good quality and contain useful information for all, so why reduce it through a lens of height (despite caveats)? I'd be considered tall, but there are instances where I need to 'reach' - and i don't mean simply standing on a huge ledge and stretching vertically. Hence all those tips about footwork etc... in the previous article are things I can apply.

Same with the mental tips; plenty I can use because the techniques apply beyond short people - so why even mention it? ( I understand now that it was part of her brief).

Learned helplessness is a real limiter in climbing and life in general. Good technique and strong head game apply to all and can be trained. 

Yep! Guilty as charged. I'm working on it... 👍😄 

Humans didnt make the rock, but they defined the routes. Go to a spray wall, and set a route. Chances are you will set something that fits you and not someone else. 

Much ado about nothing ... with rock climbing size does not matter ... as has been proven time and time again... ever since some guy climbed Napes Needle. 

There is a message of "get over being short" but also an explicit claim that being vertically-challenged is a thing

Because being short is a thing. It is not made up. Some people are short. And it affects climbing.

Why not focus on it? It really affects some people. And our attention is not a zero sum game - I'm sure we would all welcome articles about the experiences of climbers of another extreme personal attribute e.g. v tall, v heavy etc.

Joe Brown was a short-arse. He just got on with things, and seemed to do alright.

It's only f-ucking climbing. Just get on with it, and enjoy it. (And, if you don't enjoy it, consider packing it in ...)

I love articles about head game. So much untapped potential in many of us for improving at climbing and also for just enjoying it more - which is the point right? 

Thought I'd throw a cup of petrol onto the fire. Five/six years ago, an American outfit (I think it was the Colorado Climbing Project or something similar) did a quality study into what makes for success as a climber. 650 participants, rangng from beginners to approx. F8B+. There were 34 variables (inc. height, reach, weight, training history, time spent on rock, 1RM pull-up, etc.) and the study found very significant results, principally:

1. The greatest determining factor of success was 'time spent on rock and time spent indoors', followed by markers of strength, i.e. 1RM pull-up. Developing technical and tactical understanding and strength.

2. The two lowest attributes were height and arm span.

Again, both these results were significant beyond question.

Food for thought, if nothing else..

Really appreciate you sharing this! The techniques and insights are very useful and inspiring. Posts like this are always a great reminder to keep learning and improving — thank you!