UKC

There are a wealth of classic E2s in Pembroke, so much so that it's hard to know where to begin. Here we have outlined five 'classics' alongside five 'others'. There are some that are steep, some that are slightly less steep, and some that are just plain weird. As is often the case, it's not just the routes themselves that are special here, but also the cliffs within which they're located. Places like Huntsman's Leap, Stackpole, and Mother Carey's are up there with the very best that the UK has to offer. 

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I've done most of these

Silver Shadow, Chimes and Strait Gates are the best IMO

Brazen Buttress was the hardest

I was reading this, thinking, what about Chimes of Freedom? There it was, in the second handful! Personally I would swap in Bon Voyage and Keelhaul instead of Deranged and First Blood, but they’re all great.

On the slightly esoteric side, The Soup Dragon looks great (completely unlikely at the grade) and the dragon’s roar is something to behold! We didn’t do it due to the tide but Splendour was a good alternative at E3 which shares the last few metres of The Soup Dragon.

Stackpole has the psychological advantage - so true! Puritan is another great E2 there.

Wonder what the E3 list will look like. I reckon:

Zeppelin, Swordfish, Pleasure Dome, Gravy Train, Test Case

Next 5 - Stargate (or perhaps Galaxy for something a bit esoteric but brilliant), Deep Throat, Rollerwall, Mysteries.

Not done Wavelength but looks great. Not done Kitten Claws but it gets a good billing - though I’d argue that slabs aren’t really what Pembroke is all about.

The Leap really needs a top quality E3! Wrap up is good but not top 10 quality. Same for Ghost Ship and Mysteries.

Someone might cause mischief by adding Bloody Sunday. E4 in my book…

All those are good, Brazen Buttress being the best I've done. 

I'm not surprised by any though, would be interested to hear of more esoteric gems. 

For my part, I'd put in The Rip (E2 5b) . A soaring, intimidating jamming crack, isolated on the end of a promontory. You feel very alone abbing to the bottom. I seconded it years ago and would like to go back and lead it one day when I'm feeling strong.

A great list and have done them all, I did wonder where the big Mewsford routes are, as Daydreams in particular is superb, but again what would you leave out. Not done Year of the Cat but Surprise Attack - wasn't this E1? - and Lateral Bearings are very good. 

Not really esoteric but Planet Waves has two great contrasting pitches and agree that Puritan is very good. One good esoteric one is Femme Fatale - done due to the Gong being busy.

Misha - Wavelength and Kitten Claws are two of the best E3s I've done  - maybe partly circumstances - Wavelength is hard to find and for us needed gear for the ab in to avoid the swing in to the belay and on the first attempt was greasy and too hard, better 2nd try. Lucky to get Kitten Claws unchalked which made it more memorable. If you want one in the Leap how about Strap Up? A good line and good climbing.

Some strange taste variations on offer here for example, I remember finding Brazen Buttress fairly simple compared to, say, First Blood. I still think Deep Space is one of the best routes I’ve ever climbed. I wouldn’t have given it a second thought looking at the first pitch but my partner at the time was so excited that it was dry. Great description of deranged - you climb along thinking you’re on the wrong route or it’s been misgraded and then, oh, hello. 
Good articles these. Sadly my empathy will run out in a couple more. 

I think Strap Up is good but not quite top 10 E3s quality (I put Wrap Up in my post, thanks for correcting). Definitely keen for both Wavelength and Kitten Claws, just need to get round to them and as you say conditions are key for Wavelength from what I gather. Surprise Attack is arguably E1 as you say, it’s a bit bold on the crux so has been upgraded for that I guess. 

Another E2 that was quite an outrageous experience was Across the Universe (E2 5b) on Blockhouse Buttress. Sadly the first pitch has fallen down.

Bonkers route; the guidebook says traverse with one and and one foot in the upper break and one hand and one foot on the lip of the overhang which sounds bizarre but is exactly what I ended up doing. Then you have to weave through, or outside, some wide cracks/chimney/breaks to the 'diving board' belay ledge in a wonderfully exposed position above a wild overhang.

Yep, I did it when it got E1 and thought it would have been a bit dangerous for someone not totally comfortable at the grade. There's not really a plan B and it could easily get messy on the crux.