In reply to UKC Articles:
This is a fantastic resource for people embarking on big walls. It's a great skill to make sense of this complex enterprise.
A friend messaged me about the section on safeguarding yourself following, thinking this could have more emphasis and I tend to agree. There have been several fatal accidents when people became detached from the rope following pitches on jumars. I'm particularly sensitive as a housemate died this way:
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13198402803/Fall-on-Ro...
I am old-school and possibly out of touch but I nearly always tied-in short with a bight to a big screwgate, more awkward but probably more secure than grigri or microtraxion. I occasionally used a grigri. I can see a case for trailing a microtraxion on straight-up pitches but I'd still switch to tying-in short if it got remotely awkward. Each method has relative risks and advantages.
"Before leaving the ground, decide on a backup method*, practice it, and stick to it once you’re on the wall. With a little experience, it won’t slow you down, and it might save your life".
From: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200505302
*or two
