UKC

I wear Instinct VS's for everything (bouldering, sport, trad - single and multi-pitch). They're great, almost no complaints but...

As I get older I find my big toes really hurt after long days out. I've sized up a bit which helps but really I'd like something more comfortable/supportive for multi-pitch.

Anyone got any good recommendations? I guess multi-pitch routes would be up to 6c sport or E2 trad. So nothing crazy but also a bit of precision would be reassuring.

Personally, I really like the Katana laces. I also have a pair of Instincts that I boulder indoors in. 

With the Katanas I go down from 45 to 42.5 and find them very comfy, e.g. enough to do 10 pitches of delicate slab in 27°C heat. They have a tough break in period though (miserably shuffling around the house a few times; a couple of indoor sessions where they feel awful and insensitive). Then they're incredibly good!

Alternatively, I have a pair of blue UP Lace that I find ok. Personally, I often find them too soft, but they are comfy. The LV version has a shite heel in my view, but perhaps I'm in a minority on that.

Finally, I love the Vapour S downsized as a bouldering shoe. Much better than the lace version, which I really don't get on with. Might be good as a trad shoe if not too downsized.

Hope one of those works!

I use a pair of the old Yellow/Blue Vapour V's for this (before they split the sole and put a toe rubber patch on - I suspect to sell more shoes to the indoor crowd). They seem to offer similar support in half to a full size up from my instinct size. 

Honestly a really boring suggestion, but the Miura VS is the full-outsole, XSEdge, wide forefoot shoe of my younger days and they just re-released it. Could be a winner?

I climb in Instinct VS's for most things but for trad I have a pair of Scarpa Generator in the same size which work really well for me. I could've downsized half a size but they're comfortable and stiff while still being really precise. 

Nice, thanks all for the suggestions, a few good looking options there . Will go and try them out.

Thanks for the thread. I was going to post the same thing as an Instinct VS wearer. Please do post about what you get and how you get on with them. I've done 18 pitches in a pair of Anasazis a half size up. Tolerable but not ideal. 

If they suit your foot shape, Miura laceup.

In the exact same situation - Instinct VS are perfect for most things, but achy toes on long days. I've literally just bought some Generators for this purpose. Not had chance to fully test them out yet, but seem to fit my feet nicely, 1 euro size up from the instincts for a more all-day comfort fit.

I'd previously used Unparallel Up Rise for this purpose, but they softened up a lot and got to the point of being no more comfortable than the instincts.

Instinct Lace could be another consideration - same fit as the Instinct VS but stiffer.

Scarpa Helix are by far the most comfortable multipitch shoes I've ever had, but I wouldn't rate them particularly highly for precision.

I used to wear Miura Laces for most things, but for me at least no amount of upsizing could make the pointy asymmetric toe bearable for hours on end.

I'm a long time instinct fan and am in same predicament, this thread might prompt me to go out and buy some more shoes before an upcoming trip rather than persevere with the knackered 5.10 quantums I currently use for all day multipitch. 

I've got some instinct laces half a size up from my velcros which I used to use for trad, however, I actually now find the velcros way comfier dispite the fact they are smaller, I guess as they are a lot softer. I hardly use the lace ups anymore.