THE LOWDOWN: 8B+ FA by Shawn Diamond

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[The LowDown: 8B+ FA by Shawn Diamond, 1 kb]Shawn Diamond has, according to, done the FA of Direct North, 8B+, in the Buttermilks. Initially, Shawn named it True North, and my guess was, this had to be a sds to Sean McColl's 8B-problem with the same name, done in January of last year. Quite confusing...As it turns out, Shawn wasn't...


Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
Shawn Diamond 28 Sep 2009
To the above Anonymous comment: As I don't spend much of my life in front of climbing forums and blogs, I'll write my first note now as I just came across your words. Hopefully, this will find you somewhere in the interweb. I climbed Direct North when the temps. - according to my Iphone at the Thunderbird hotel -were 47 degrees in town early in May. I had warmed up by 8am and climbed the line around 9am. I had been attempting the line over the past year since I first climbed Magnetic North in April of 2008 (the same time as my FA of Rise) and an FA of Direction 2005 - filmed by JM Casanova. Since, all of my ascents have been witnessed by either spotters or photographers i.e. Damon Corso, Sara Orens for lines like Luminance, The Golden Rule, Footsteps. But, unfortunately some of my ascents first occured with no spotters, no video and no evidence like The Resolve, a boulder in the Gunks, (which I have subsequently repeated for multiple parties and photo sessions this spring after similar allegid rumors emerged last year after the FA - not quite as directly as these comments preseent now). So I admit and agree, much trust of the climbing community is required upon an athlete who is in sole charge of knowing whether a route has been done or not. Because I was accused first last spring of lying about the Resolve. I've taken better care to ENSURE the presence of Spotters lately especially on these new high and dangerous lines. Photos of Direct North will be coming out in Climbing Magazine Shortly ... so just hang on.

Lastly, if any personal issues need be addressed directly (it seems a personal vendetta has been set) especially regarding my character feel free to contact (I'd be interested as well to learn of boulders that I climbed like a phantom ghost while you were there over entire days). My personal emails: and

Anonymous 28 Sep 2009
If you're gonna call bullshit that hard in a public forum(and I'm not saying that you don't know what you're talking about!)your case would be much more compelling if you signed your name. Incidentally, I checked the archives for May 5th and that morning was cool(mid 40's, about 7-9degrees Celsius for all you Euro Dogs), even down in the valley in Bishop, buuuut a little humid maybe. He would of had to have warmed up real fast and sent by 9AM at the latest. ??. I wish I was in Bishop instead of posting on the stupid intardweb.
Anonymous 28 Sep 2009
The weather in Bishop this time of year yields temperatures consistently around 33 Degrees Celsius. It's hard to believe that such a temperature dependent boulder problem as Thunderbird (the stand to Direction) would be possible in these sort of conditions. I'm officially calling this an invalid ascent until further evidence is given. It's amazing that people still believe that Shawn's "accomplishments" are legitimate considering that he has been caught in lies on numerous occasions. In fact, he has even managed to lie to my face claiming that he climbed certain boulders on days where I most certainly spent the entirety of my day throwing myself at them with him nowhere in sight. In a sport where people rely very heavily on trust, it's a shame that there are people out there that seek to further their image by misrepresenting their abilities and accomplishments. I bring this up not just to tarnish Shawn's image (which I believe it should be) but to draw focus to a growing problem that I see in the climbing community.
DaveH 28 Sep 2009
maybe he thinks its a grade harder?
Hey Anonymous 1, drop me a line and explain more about what you're basing your doubts on. This kind of rumours circulate about various climbers all the time, so it would be interesting to know the actual facts in this particular case./Björn
That's what I thought too initially, but then I realized he has registered it as a FA in his scorecard...
Anonymous 22 Jan 2010
..Unfortunately Shawn, there is a rash of hearsay going around about a number of your ascents. Think of me as just a random climber in the area... I don't know you, and in regards to these things... I don't know who to believe. But you should know that there are a number of rumors going around questioning the validity of your claims. Most notably: Luminance. I've even heard people saying that Kevin Jorgensen is the rightful first ascensionist.

Since we now live in the youtube generation ... In the case of such a futuristic FA ... Sadly, a few pics and your word just aren't enough anymore.

The same thing happened to the Late Michael Reardon (RIP). Without footage, his solo of Romatic Warrior, because it was SO bold, will always be in question. Your FA claim of Luminance, spotters, photographer, or not... was so futuristic, regardless of its grade, it obviously requires an other-worldly head space.

If I were you, and this advice goes out to anyone who wants to silence the critics... Go do the line again, and get it on video. I know it sucks to have to re-prove yourself, but that FA was one of the boldest ever... and having footage would probably go a long way towards solidifying your credibility.

Just a thought man, either way keep crankin!

Signed: "just another climber"

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