> it's not entirely unthinkable she could climb quite a bit harder if she focused more on rock
I would say it's a certainty. Most climbers can redpoint 3 or 4 grades harder than they can onsight. If she can climb 8c+ second try it's surely obvious she could climb something much harder if she spent 4 or 5 or more days on it.
But it seems like many competition climbers find it hard to make the time for outdoor climbing and projects need even more time. The comp season is pretty long, then they probably need a bit of rest and a good bit of time training for the next season. So it's a shame we don't see more competition climbers outside. Both Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi have climbed 9b on rock which gives a good indication of the level competition climbers are operating at.