UKC

/ NEW ARTICLE: A Winter Ascent of Aphrodite - E7

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UKC Articles - on 20 Feb 2009
[We got our kit dropped off by this chopper, 0 kb]Rad Butts and Creagan Beaulay are two keen British climbers. In our last feature, Creagan looked back at his beginnings in the sport, with a winter ascent of Aladdin's Couloir (I).

Here, Creagan describes the build up to his first winter ascent of a summer E7, Aphrodite, on the Shelter Stone crag in the Cairngorms.

"The strange thing is that Rad fell in to the lochan at the exact same time that I was transferring energy waves from the snowy rock into my body-memory..."

"But later, Rad told me he had deliberately fallen in to test my reflexes."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1657

lex - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really impressed by these 'just go there and do it' guys, who don't court publicity, and just climb for the fun of it.

Hope they don't get dragged into the Grand Grade Debate - it would sully their spritual approach.

An inspiring read for the weekend.

Lex
Sam L - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: I like their approach, good to have some brits making no compromises in style and ethics. Good on them.
Sam

220bpm on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: pmsl, good one
catt on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

Amazing. That's going to be a tough one to repeat.
In reply to catt: I read about a lot of hard ascents in my job, and they do all start to blur in to one. Then, just occasionally, something really special happens. A defining moment in World climbing. I think we've witnessed one right here.

We have seen just the tip of the iceberg from these two, I'd guess. Who knows what's next?

Ueli Steck - watch out!!

Good luck Rad and Creagan.

Jack

Bill Davidson - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Aye & no swearing either! ;-)
martin k on 20 Feb 2009 - host81-142-65-185.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to UKC Articles: At last! Engaging, literate and readable climbing writing. So much better than the old "I went and did a dead hard route and look who I'm sponsored by" sort of yawn.

I would like to point out that my husky discovered the transference of energy from the snowy rock to her body memory years before these copycatzzz.

Astral Highway on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to martin k:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) At last! Engaging, literate and readable climbing writing.

Thank you.

> I would like to point out that my husky discovered the transference of energy from the snowy rock to her body memory years before these copycatzzz.

I'm sure these guys would acknowledge that these skills have been around and practised for many years. They wouldn't have meant to offend your husky.
hwackerhage - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great stuff! But why can't I find Aphrodite FWA in my last SMC Cairngorms guidebook?
'Rad' Butts on 20 Feb 2009 - 77-101-144-108.cable.ubr08.dals.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to hwackerhage:

It only went up this February, basically under two weeks ago. We sent the route in to the SMC. Check it out with those guys.
Only a hill - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to 'Rad' Butts:
Can I just say Rad that you are my god. One day I hope to be as kick-ass hardcore as you are.

What is your next project, or is it being kept secret? A little bird tells me Echo Wall has not yet been done in winter!

Keep it extreme dude
petestack - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great read. As pointedly funny as the first one!
'Rad' Butts on 20 Feb 2009 - 77-101-144-108.cable.ubr08.dals.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to Only a hill:
> (In reply to 'Rad' Butts)
> Can I just say Rad that you are my god. One day I hope to be as kick-ass hardcore as you are.

Dude, please. But thank you.

> What is your next project, or is it being kept secret?

For obvious reasons I can't give too much away on a public forum. But I am thinking of a training programme that includes the first winter solo of the summer line of the Bat if it comes back in over the next few weeks.
Wee Davie - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

Awesome. Inspirational.
I'm waiting to see if Rad will transfer his honed mountain skills into dominance of the indoor tooling scene? Will he join the 'brotherhood' and become Britain's ultimate winter machine?
Only a hill - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to 'Rad' Butts:
> For obvious reasons I can't give too much away on a public forum. But I am thinking of a training programme that includes the first winter solo of the summer line of the Bat if it comes back in over the next few weeks.

I would like to apply for the honour of belaying you on your historic ascent. I've just bought a new helmet and everything. I realise competition for such a prestigious role will be tough, but if it comes to an audition I can do a pretty far-out war-cry.
'Rad' Butts on 20 Feb 2009 - 77-101-144-108.cable.ubr08.dals.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to Only a hill:
> (In reply to 'Rad' Butts)
> [...]
>
> I would like to apply for the honour of belaying you on your historic ascent. I realise competition for such a prestigious role will be tough, but if it comes to an audition I can do a pretty far-out war-cry.

Well, I admire your enthusiasm. I'll definitely bear you in mind if Creagan is injured.

petestack - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to 'Rad' Butts:
> first winter solo of the summer line of the Bat

Sorry, but I already did that (last weekend)! :-P
sconesandjam on 20 Feb 2009 - 77-101-144-108.cable.ubr08.dals.blueyonder.co.uk
Hey Rad, you are a guy who knows what he wants.
Astral Highway on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to lex:

Thanks, Lex. These guys will be doing a lot more, for sure. I hope to be reporting on their progress some time soon.
jh5638 - on 20 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:
I don't get it! Is it supposed to be funny? Or am I missing something?
Astral Highway on 21 Feb 2009
In reply to jh5638:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> I don't get it! Is it supposed to be funny?

I think Creagan did his level best to get this into the news section of UKC. It was always meant to be just as serious as everything Rad and Creagan do
Astral Highway on 22 Feb 2009
In reply to petestack:
> (In reply to 'Rad' Butts)
> [...]
>
> Sorry, but I already did that (last weekend)! :-P

Missed this notable post. Did you send details of the ascent in to UKC news? Rad will be gutted. Perhaps the pressure will spur the duo onto even greater things.
hwackerhage - on 23 Feb 2009
In reply to 'Rad' Butts:

Ok, I fell into the trap and you won!
maxf - on 23 Feb 2009
In reply to original article:

I am sorry but I just didn't find this funny, not the first one, and definitely not worth a second feature...

Others seem to be enjoying it though so well done to you... tastes differ I guess!
Astral Highway on 23 Feb 2009
In reply to hwackerhage:
> (In reply to 'Rad' Butts)
>
> Ok, I fell into the trap and you won!

Thanks for playing along with it!

Al
Astral Highway on 25 Feb 2009
In reply to maxots:
> (In reply to original article)
>
>
> Others seem to be enjoying it though so well done to you... tastes differ I guess!

I guess! Thank you for taking the time to give me your feedback.

Andrew Sandercock - on 26 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

i thought that was hilarious.
joolskilly - on 27 Feb 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: Geat route in original style.

As long as people are honest with reporting first asscents climbing is in safe hands.
Theres a few lines at harrisons I think would be good for a similar style, swapping the snowmobile for a trails bike. Might cut some new lines also.
Cool
Keith
Astral Highway on 27 Feb 2009
In reply to andrew sandercock:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> i thought that was hilarious.

Cheers! Glad you liked it.
Sam L - on 01 Mar 2009
In reply to Astral Highway: I'll be honest, the first one was much better - there were some nice character observations which made it. This one felt a bit overplayed, trying a bit hard and sounding a little bit ridiculous. It was funny, and some of the writing was very good, but generally I think satire has to almost sound real for it to be brilliant.
Sam
Astral Highway on 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Sam L:

Thanks for taking the time to read both pieces and to comment in detail, Sam. I appreciate your thoughtful feedback as I'm always interested in finding out what my audience thinks.

Cheers

Al
Sam L - on 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Astral Highway: No problems, I always prefer that sort of comment myself. Hope to read more of your stuff soon.
Sam
Astral Highway on 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Sam L:
> Hope to read more of your stuff soon.

Thanks, Sam. At a suitable moment I do hope to publish a follow-up!

Cheers. Al
J0 - on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

I almost didn't read this. Thought it'd be followed by the sadly now normal debate over nick-ness and grade (like a rubber necker at an accident site, I am drawn to read ethical arguments which invariably ends up spoiling things). Then I noticed the grade and was intrigued..

I'm so glad I bothered. Its possibly one of the best articles ever published on UKC and I subsequently went off to find its predecessor, which I enjoyed as much.

I hope there is a lot, lot more to come.


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