UKC

REVIEW: Beastmaker 2000: Back two - the future?

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 UKC Gear 02 Mar 2009
[Beastmaker, 2 kb]Simon Lee steps in to the seedy back streets of Sheffield and gets his mitts on the new Beastmaker 2000.

"Ned appeared and let me in – he seemed a bit 'tired'. The place was a mess. I went up to his bedroom, passed over the cash, and was out before you can say 1-5-9. I had scored my Beastmaker..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1660

 Chazz 02 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC Gear: Not really a review is it... The only real opinion given about the board is it "looks nice."
 UKB Shark 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Chazz:

It "feels" nice too.
 IainWhitehouse 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Simon Lee: Hi Simon, it's interesting to see you write that you will never be able to hold the 45deg sloper.
I said almost the same thing to Karl at the Foundry and was mocked for being defeatist. Sure enough, I actually could hang it if I stacked fingers in the edge, whatever the term is. Apparently the trick is to move slowly from there to hanging it properly.
I'll let you know how I get on after Dan delivers my first five boards!
Iain
 UKB Shark 02 Mar 2009
In reply to IainWhitehouse:


I should have mentioned in the article that another stand out feature of the Beastmaker is the quality selection of slopers. For the 45deg one I assume using the tiny crimp at the back is cheating along with nesting? your index finger against the side. Something to aspire to.
In reply to UKC Gear: If you train hard on the slopers you might get dope on a slope before you turn 50 (or do I mean 60?)
 UKB Shark 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Way off the mark - the crimps and Broomgrove would have been on target though
In reply to Simon Lee: I flashed that back in about 1986!!!!
 UKB Shark 02 Mar 2009
In reply to Graeme Alderson:


Yes I heard that you mention that. Daily.
 IanC 03 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC Gear:
for those in the NE, Climb Newcastle have one too.
In reply to UKC Gear: Hi Simon, I would have liked to have seen more information on the use of the board to be honest. Maybe an update on your progress would be good. Some of the questions which sprung to mind as I read the review.

What are repeaters? (I know what they are but they're new to me and figure maybe new to a lot of people).
What holds/grip type did you use for the repeaters?
More information on the holds and how they differ from other finger boards?
Did you find the wood was kinder to your skin or not (when compared to resin boards)?
Which fingerboard(s) are you comparing it too?

and ginnels don't exist in Sheffield
In reply to Plattsy: Hi Plattsy,

We will have a more in-depth review of this board soon courtesy of Kevin Avery.

He is currently dangling off it as we speak.

Kevin - get back to work!

Jack

In reply to Plattsy:
> and ginnels don't exist in Sheffield

Yes they do, http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/ginnel
Sheffield was in Yorkshire last time I looked?
In reply to The Climbing Works:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ginnel

"Jennel is local to Sheffield"
Serpico 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Plattsy) Hi Plattsy,
>
> We will have a more in-depth review of this board soon courtesy of Kevin Avery.
>
> He is currently dangling off it as we speak.
>
From what I've heard it sounds like he needs to.
C'mon Kev pull harder or more barn humiliation awaits you.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Hi Jack. Cool. Look forward to it.
 UKB Shark 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Plattsy:

Its all on their website which is linked along with relevant training articles but seeing as you asked nicely..

The recommended times for a Repeater set is choosing a hold hanging it for 7secs, 7 times with 3 secs rest between hangs then have 5minutes rest choose another grip and do the same. For a session you should aim to work slopers, crimps and half crimps. Pinches are another major grip position but not catered for on boards generally (perhaps they should). The Beastmaker guys advocate that you try to isolate your fingers too to work weaker digits such as the Back-two (ring + little) hence the title.

Yes woood is kinder to skin - sorry I thought this was obvious. I'm not comparing it to any other boards because I have not been compelled to buy any other boards - which tells you something in itself. I do have rock rings - bought for their portability when circumstances prevent any other training. To major on the diffrent types of holds seems to be missing the point somehow. As Dave Mac points out - most of us can get the gains on a single edge - Its just doing it that is the problem - and its only a small part of the solution to the bigger problem of how to get good at climbing.

I guess from comments above what I wrote was not quantative enough. Soz. I was more interested in how they made a very boring type of training fresh and exciting - especially for someone like me who is old and decrepit. To go with my Beastmaker 2000 I intend to purchase some Grecian 2000 - review to follow..


In reply to Simon Lee: Thanks Simon for the update. No need to apologise. I'm in an unusual mood for providing feedback (hopefully constructively).

Would be good to hear your thoughts/progression in the future.
 John Gillott 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Simon Lee:

I tried the 7 seconds on 3 off routine on my old Metolius board. It's a good exercise - as the Beastmaker boys say, somewhere between a strength and a power endurance exercise. I got quite a pump on doing it (oooh er) so I'd say it was a bit closer to the latter, but then that's my marked weakness so maybe that's the reason it seemed close to it. I found it left me with that pumped feeling more effectively than the ten minute routine recommended by Metolius.

In reply to Plattsy:

Yes, we always said Jennel rather than Ginnel when I were a lad.
In reply to Simon Lee:

The "Encours" excersise is recommended too, check out their site. These are repeaters with a different arm lock off position for each hang..... a few sets of theses babys give you a brutal finger and arm workout!
 Liam Copley 05 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC Gear: "If you live outside Sheffield then sort your life out, move here, live the dream and crush."

most inspiring thing i've read for a while!

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