UKC

FRI NIGHT VID: Gigantor - A Chossy Climbing Film

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 UKC News 12 May 2023

Australian Climber Zac Vertrees is at home on the Dogface climbing Gigantor, a route first aid climbed in 1967 by John Ewbank. Zac freed the route in 2005, but it has not seen a second free ascent since. 15 years later in 2020, he returns to re-climb it and finds it tougher than ever before.

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 Derek Ryden 13 May 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Beautiful, engaging footage which really conveys what "proper trad" actually feels like! My only reservation is that some of it appears to have been edited so as to be out of sequence, which I found distracting. 

Post edited at 10:10
 jon 13 May 2023
In reply to Derek Ryden:

> Beautiful, engaging footage which really conveys what "proper trad" actually feels like! 

Makes you really appreciate what drones can bring to climbing films. 

> My only reservation is that some of it appears to have been edited so as to be out of sequence, which I found distracting. 

Yes, that and some repetition, did give it a slightly disjointed feel.  Overall though, great film of a fantastic route...

One thing I would like know is what the cluster of nine old carrot bolts was for - was it a belay, for instance ?

Post edited at 14:59
 jonny taylor 13 May 2023
In reply to UKC News:

I am happy to see (and hear) that a rack of hexes still has a use on a climb of this difficulty!

 Fraser 14 May 2023
In reply to jon:

There's an explanation on the actual YouTube page as a a Pinned Comment with the following response:

"There’s an 11 or 12 bolt belay there. Bunch of which I filmed when Paul mentions the bad bolts. Neither the FA or FFA used them at all. They were put in by parties trying to repeat the route on aid and getting scared. When John climbed it in one pitch for the FA he didn’t need belay stations and as you know Zac wasn’t using any bolts at all."

Post edited at 08:45
 jon 14 May 2023
In reply to Fraser:

Thanks Fraser.

 olddirtydoggy 14 May 2023
In reply to Derek Ryden:

We said exactly the same thing. The top out was also missing from the film which was rather odd. I'm sure he did it again but the editing was a funny one. Great watch tho.


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